Cortland Master Braid Review by Chuck

Cortland Line Company of Cortland New York has been in the line business for nearly 100 years. Only in recent years have they been producing braided line under their own name. Prior to that they made braided line for some of the biggest names in the saltwater line game. Cortland is one of the only 3 companies with the capability to actually braid spectra into line. All of their line is made in house in their New York facility, a true American manufacturer.

Master Braid is Cortland's solid braid which features FiberTech. A proprietary penetrating treatment which is used to permanently protect the line and enhance it's handling properties. This technology also permanently bonds with the fibers to seal in the color of the braid. No flaking, or fading, etc. FiberTech also gives Master Braid truly world class abrasion resistance.
After reading about the line in a few places, I contacted Brooks Robinson at Cortland to see about getting some line in for review. Brooks was very helpful, answering all my questions and was eager to get some line out to me to put it through it's paces in the harsh environments of that we encounter on our quest for monster catfish.
I spooled up the 50# Yellow Master braid on 2 of my reels. I chose 50# as the ultimate test for the lines abrasion resistance. Any nicks in the line should cause a quick release of any big flathead I hooked up to while pushing my drag up around 20 pounds.
After about a month and a half of fishing this line, I can say I have had ZERO problems. I have checked the line closely before every trip. Looking for any hint of damage. I have purposely sent casts into snags and over chunk rock with absolutely NO damage, simply incredible!
The old saying about not using braid in cover and especially around rocks, that simply doesn't apply with Cortland Master Braid. FiberTech is the real deal folks, not just some b.s. put out by a company to make their line seem better.

I was concerned after reading for years about knots in braid not holding as well as in mono. That to doesn't apply with Cortland Master Braid. I have been using the palomar with this line with ZERO slippage or knot defects of any kind. Even under high drag pressure with some big flatheads on. The line has simply performed with 100% reliability in every test I have put it through no matter the conditions.
I have also heard of lighter braid breaking on hard hooksets on heavy fish. I can tell you that didn't happen with the Master Braid. A few weeks ago I set the hook into a beast of a fish, big enough that when I set the hook the rod just stopped coming up when the line pulled completely tight. I was able to lift the rod slightly after that, but not enough to get a good bend in it. The Cortland held it's ground. But after a short fight, my leader gave up the ghost. What was my leader material? 50# Ande Monster Yellow. This was a fresh leader I had just tied a few hours before, that hadn't had any fish on it yet, but had been in some wood. I broke my own rule about obsessively checking my leaders, and it cost me a monster flathead. I'm pretty sure if I were using the Master Braid as a leader, I would have boated that fish.
I still have full confidence in Ande Monster Yellow. It will still be a part of my rigs, but I need to make sure I check it any time I come in contact with some nasty structure. Using 20 pounds of drag any defect in the line and a big fish will exploit it.
After that mishap I began to consider other leader options. I have some 100 pound Ande Monster Yellow, or would some 150 pound Cortland Master Braid do the trick. But really, checking my leader like I normally do would have eliminated the failure. I may still give some 150 pound Master Braid a try as a leader to see how it performs.
I'm positive it will perform just as well as the 50 pound line has. The Cortland Master Braid has put several nice flatheads in the boat so far, and it will stay on my reels until it's time to replace it with new Cortland Master Braid. I am now planning on putting it on most of my other reels. I see no reason to not use the best product I can find, especially when it's a line product. Our link between us and the fish.
So there you have it. The new top dog in line for my quest for monster catfish. The best abrasion resistance of any line I have ever used, incredible knot strength with no slippage, permanently bonded color, and amazing impact resistance. What more can we ask for from a line?

Chuck.

Ande Monster Yellow Mono Review by Chuck

Ande Monster has been my main line of choice ever since the first time I used it a few years back. This line is just incredible in every criteria we require for hunting monster cats. It has incredible strength. I still have not successfully been able to break the 50# line when getting snagged. Monster also has the most abrasion resistance of any line I have ever used. The knot strength using the palomar is unbelievable. The knot actually breaks at a higher strength than the line does. You just don't get any better than that. Using one of the easiest knots to tie, the easiest for me, this line will simply not break before another part of the line does. Something else I find appealing about the Monster Yellow is the lack of memory. After casting out the line lays flat through the guides. No coiling at all. This lack of memory also helps in avoiding the dreaded backlash. The line isn't trying to spring off the spool, it simply lays there until pulled out. Another feature I enjoy is the lack of stretch. This line like all other mono does have some stretch, however it is less than many other mono lines I have used. The Yellow version of the Ande is also florescent. Under a black light it glows like rope. As far as mono line goes, Ande Monster simply has no peer in my experience. This line receives my highest recommendation for monster catfish duty. It does cost a little more than the bargain mono's, but it is MORE than worth it. Lately I have been buying it straight from the Ande website. They have the lowest prices and the biggest selection. So head on over to the Ande site and pick some up. You can thank me later.


Chuck.

Bank Fishing, Not just for weekenders by Scott Ross

Bank fishing? When I was doing the whole Bass tournament thing I would just laugh when I heard that. The only bank fishing I ever did then was when I took my kids bluegill fishing. I realize now that sometimes bank fishing is a lot better than being out in the wind or sun. And it doesn't mean parking next to a bridge and fishing the same trash filled spot that everybody else tosses a worm in from.

Sometimes bank fishing is as simple as running your boat out to an island or up river to park somewhere. And yet it is still quite often just simply what it imply's... bank fishing. Maybe you was unable to get the boat to the lake or just simply don't have one. Or you have a real sense of adventure and wanna hike out to where nobody else has been because they cant get a boat there or walk that far. Bank fishing is a way of life for many. You could run down to the lake and throw a hook out in the same place that everyone else does, And you might get lucky. But If you want success, and you want it consistently it takes a lot of time and dedication.

There are many different factors that are deemed necessary for a bank spot to produce quality fish time and time again. From depth changes to current, and structure to accessibility, And a good food supply.
Successful bank fishing requires prep work. Internet can come in quite handy. Once you know what body of water you plan to fish, the easiest part is finding a topographic map for that lake. Of course, rivers are not always so easy.  Just type and search. For lakes, a good cove will have some depth to it. Or a bank stretch that may have a good drop off. For rivers a bend in the river is a great place to start looking. But accessibility can play a big factor in choosing a location.
To help me find access and to look for new spots I like to use Google Earth. And when I'm on the road I use the Google maps app that comes standard on most phones. It has a option to turn on satellite view.  I spend a lot of time on my computer following rivers and searching lake shores. When following rivers I like to watch for where two rivers combine or a small creek drops into a bigger river. Also where train tracks cross a river. I usually try to avoid where a road crosses the river. More often than not It is usually a well known area and fished often. Train tracks usually have deeper holes underneath and the pillars can be a great permanent structure for fish. When searching you can usually see a house or road close to the spot you want to check out. You may often have to get permission to get to an area. Most people are more than generous enough to allow it. But not everybody. Just be courteous and polite and if someone says no, then just accept it and move on.

Scouting areas in your free time is always the best way. Check out an area while the sun is up and you will usually be able to see structure and water depth. And you know if it is an area you want to try out or not. Another good thing to watch for is branches hanging low or any other obstacle that may prove hazardous when the light has gone down. This would also be a great time to make a clearing to fish from. It is better to get this done ahead of time so as not to scare off fish or even hurt yourself while trying to rush later. It may also be necessary to clear and mark a path just to get there.
I carry a hiking backpack with me wherever I go. This is for several reasons. First off It's just way easier than trying to carry a tacklebox along with everything else. Second its always ready to go.

Things in my Pack
Umbrella
Trash bag
Spare clothes(in a gallon Ziplock)
Fillet knife
Hunting knife
Hatchet
Small military style saw
Fish grips
Scale
Rope stringer
Glow sticks
Terminal Tackle (Hooks, weights, etc.)
Hand and foot warmers
Matches and lighter
Spare flashlight
Spare batteries

And on occasion I take a chair along. Many of these serve more then one purpose. Trash bag can become a poncho, carry trash, or put wet soaked clothes in. Glow sticks can be used for poles, to mark the trail, mark ground hog holes, or just keep kids busy if they get bored. And  so on. Are all of these necessary? No. Do I use all of these? Quite often. But these are just the things I like to use. Some of these are just there for comfort and others for safety. If I were to slip and fall into a creek or river on a cold spring or fall night they may just save a friends life or even mine. And cold feet can ruin a good night of fishing so why not be comfortable. These by no means should be considered the only things needed or required. Think of it more as a suggestion that comes in handy.
There are alot of things that can make a bankfishing trip a complete bust or the trip of a lifetime. To me the quest can almost as fun as the fish themselves. When you take the time to do everything necessary, you know that  monster  was earned. And even if you strike out, the spot is ready and waiting for you to come back
There a lot of parts I'm sure that are missed in here. So feel free to chime in and help fellow bankfishers out.  Just remember when asking for permission to go on someones land to be respectful and honest. And leave nothing but your tracks. Environmental protection is everyone's responsibility.

Bottom Dwellers Tackle: Catfight Series - Knockout Rod Review

The relatively new Catfight series of rods offered by Bottom Dwellers Tackle are quickly gaining popularity across the catfishing community, and for good reason.  These rods offer good components, solid construction, and fit in a wide range of applications.  The first two rods in the series (the original "Catfight" and the "Take Down" editions) have swept the blue cat scene and quickly proved their worth fishing large cut and live baits on circle hooks.  Both rods feature a relatively soft tip, backed up by plenty of power through the middle and butt sections of the rod.  They've become popular among flathead fishermen as well, with the soft tip proving to be forgiving on those hard, charging runs that large flatheads are notorious for.  Those looking for a bit more "oomph" from a catfish rod, and a bit more rigidity for heavy hooksets with large J-style hooks may have been left wanting by the first two rods in this series, though.  Until now, that is.  Que the Bottom Dwellers Tackle "Knockout" rod.
[caption id="attachment_510" align="aligncenter" width="225"] Bottom Dwellers "Knockout" rod with a Shimano Tekota 600.[/caption]
Lets take a quick look at some of the specs:

• a one piece blank through handle construction (just like its two "little" brothers in the Catfight family)
•  solid stainless steel "gunsmoke" guides and tip
• matching "gunsmoke" aluminum reel seat that screws up from the bottom (towards the reel)
• a 14" cork handle and 8" cork foregrip
• a 7'9" composite blank rated for 20-60 pound test line and a 2-20 ounce casting capability
• an innovative black/white/gray digital camo wrap finished with a high-vis, white tip that glows when charged by a light source

Lets start with the initial impressions and appearance of the rod:
When I first un-boxed the knockout rod, I'll admit I was impressed.  The "gunsmoke" metal accents really set off of the blacks and grays in the digital camo wrap.  Couple this with a classy cork handle and a white tip and this rod was not hard to look at.  Holding the Knockout rod feels a bit like holding a battle ax without a reel on it.  It's not overly heavy, but it is a very solid piece of gear.  The cork handle is thicker than I expected it to be, and at first I thought this would be a hindrance.  After fishing the rod in several applications, I've not been hindered by the handle size by any means, and it offers a solid grip on the rod.  I've fished this rod coupled with anything from Shimano Tekota 600's and Abu Garcia Alphamar 20's, up to a big Penn GT 330, and all appeared (and felt) balanced on this stick.
[caption id="attachment_517" align="aligncenter" width="300"] "Gunsmoke" aluminum reel seat.[/caption]
The reel seat on this rod provides a very solid lock on your reel, as it screws up towards the reel from behind.  Be careful the first time or two you change reels with this handle though, as it seems to take a few passes for the threads to get "broken in."  As far as looks go, this rod is a head turner, and easy to spot in the dark.  Be prepared to field questions and compliments when showing up to the lake or river with this one.
Now, the down and dirty: Performance
My first impressions of this rod while fishing were that it was almost "too heavy" for my style of fishing.  I generally fish J-style or Kahle hooks for flatheads in reservoirs, so a good hook set is crucial.  This rod will certainly pack the punch you need in this situation, but has a more forgiving tip than I originally thought before putting a few fish on the rod.  Fishing the rod with braided line, I found myself setting the hook a bit too hard on a few fish.  I had no worry of breaking the line by doing this, but immediate drag slip and a bent hook or two later I found myself taming down my usual hook set.  Fished with monofilament line such as Berkley Big Game or Ande Premium, this rod provides the power and "swing" to overcome line stretch and drive those big hooks home.
[caption id="attachment_514" align="aligncenter" width="225"] Putting a bend in the Knockout rod with about 15 pounds of drag.[/caption]
Fishing this rod with large circle hooks for big river blues is effective as well, as the tip section dips under light takes and buries when a fish slams your bait.  For light biting fish in cold water, I noticed that the tip may not be as forgiving in this sense as the original Catfight and the Catfight "Takedown" rods.  Remember, though, that this is a rod designed for heavy applications.  If a very soft rod tip is necessary for the conditions you face, other rods provide that more effectively (i.e. the first two Catfight series rods, the Ugly Stick Tiger Rods, etc.) In one instance on the James River in Virginia, I hooked a fish directly in a large snag in around 40 feet of water.  Putting maximum pressure on the fish, I thought I was moving both the snag and fish towards the boat.  After several hard pumps of the rod, it was directly below the boat. Or were we above the snag?  I had pulled the 24' Carolina skiff, along with the anchor, downriver to the snag.  The 40 pound test Berkley Big Game had to be broken eventually and the fish was lost, but this demonstrated the true power of the 60 pound line rating on this blank.
[caption id="attachment_520" align="aligncenter" width="300"] Locked in battle with a James River blue in some lumber, pulling the boat and anchor.[/caption]
Casting the Knockout is a pleasure, as the 7'9" length and moderate tip easily catapult baits up to 22 ounces.  I've fished large livebaits that combined with their rig certainly pressed past this 22 ounce rating without issue, but I never recommend fishing a rod beyond its ratings.
While fighting fish, the Knockout proves its name. The power through the butt and middle of this stick is impressive, putting the brakes on angry flatheads without issue.  The moderate tip of this rod came in handy with angry fish nearing the net, as it provides some shock absorbency when a large fish makes that one final run.
[caption id="attachment_513" align="aligncenter" width="300"] A tip view of the Knockout rod, showing its taper towards the butt section.[/caption]
Applications:
As I mentioned above, my primary focus throughout the season is targeting large reservoir flatheads in my home state of Ohio.  The Knockout rod is well designed for this task.  Fishing either float or bottom rigs, casting baits or dropping baits from a boat at distance, the power and length of the Knockout rod perform these tasks with ease.  I personally prefer to fish this rod with monofilament line, as my hooksets with this rod in combination with heavy braid have been detrimental. I do enjoy the power of this rod when setting the hook on flatheads a good way away from the bank, though, as it takes away from some of the walking or "running" hooksets sometimes necessary with mono from over 70 yards away.
[caption id="attachment_518" align="aligncenter" width="225"] A solid Ohio flathead that fell victim to the Knockout rod.[/caption]
For river blue cat fishing, this rod certainly has the power to lift stubborn fish in heavy flows or cast the heavy lead necessary to hold baits in said flows. The tip is supple enough to signal light bites, but may leave you wanting more tip flex if fish are not in a rod-burying mood.  This rod does bend nicely under immense strain, though, and does not act like a complete broom stick while fighting fish.
[caption id="attachment_519" align="aligncenter" width="225"] A view of the Knockout rod on the James River, alongside the Black and Blue 7'6" and the Black and Blue 7'10" rods for comparison.[/caption]
Remember, this is a rod built for targeting the largest trophy catfish that swim in our waters.  Consider your objectives before purchasing a rod, and choose accordingly.  If gaining the upper hand on fish above 40 pounds is your goal, then the Catfight "Knockout" edition may be the rod for you.  I would not, however, expect a rod with a 60 pound line rating and 22 ounce lure rating to be the best choice for channel cat fishing, or catching a mess of smaller fish for the table.  This rod was designed to complete the Catfight series of rods from Bottom Dwellers Tackle as the heavy hitter in their lineup, and I think it fits that description perfectly.  These rods are available from Dave Ashby over at bottomdwellerstackle.com, and fetch a price tag of $79.95.

Penn Squall Review by Abu Doc

Penn Squall Review
It's kind of risky knowing me, I got wind of someone who bought himself a new Squall. Before he even had a chance to put line on it, I was there asking to take it apart. Okay everyone you have been warned, tell me about your new reel at your own risk.
Penn has made a couple of reels for deep water small fish. I say that because they had a lot of line capacity but only 11 lbs. of drag.
From the late 80s to 2008 the Penn built the GTI and from 2008 until the Fall 2013 the GT2. The one thing these reels had in common was size. 310, 320, 330 etc. I hope you didn't like them because they are gone but in their place is the Penn Squall.
The Squall is built with the same spool capacities as it's Predecessors meaning. The 15 is replacing the 310, the 20 is replacing the 320, the 30 is replacing the 330 and the 50 is replacing the 40 & 45. That is where the similarities end. Anything that looked like the old reels was thrown out and in it's place is a reel that looks like the Fathom's little brother. It can do anything the old reels can do and on top of that it's going to make a nice catfish reel.

Tear Down and Inspection
In order to keep the price down below the Fathoms the Squall is built with a graphite frame and side plates. There are several things I noticed when the right side plate was pulled off, none of which I was expecting. There is a lack of plastic in the mechanism, it's stainless steel. There is also an audible clicker on the drag star and tension cap.
The Squall's spool shaft is supported by the frame on the drive side and the non handle side plate. Moving the drive side spool bearing in board off the side plate, adds rigidity to the spool shaft and gear set. The area where the reel foot is riveted on is thicker than the GTI's. The Squall also has 2 additional braces on the back of the frame to help keep frame flex to a minimum.
It's an easy reel to tear down for maintenance with no hidden surprises like springs that fly off, never to be seen again.

Gear Set
Where the old 310GTi used a brass drive shaft the Squall uses stainless steel. The 310GTi used brass main and pinion gears, the Squall is upgraded with a stainless pinion and bronze alloy main gear. Compare the gears side by side with the 7000C gears and you will find the Squall gears are larger. Another welcome upgrade, on the GTi the gears are supported by the right side plate and held together by a bridge assembly and 4 screws. Good enough for a reel with 11 lbs of drag. On the Squall the gears are supported by the frame and side plate, which is a much stronger system.

Squall and 7000C gears compared

Squall gear set

GTI gear set
Line Recovery and Capacity.
The 15 size is about the same size as the 7000i HSN, the 20 is comparable to a 7000i. Move up to the 30 and 50 size and you get a larger frame and gear set, as well as 20 lbs of drag. Something Penn has done different on this reel is to add a knurled section to the center of the spool to keep the line from slipping. Line capacity rings are also on the spool to show when you have 1/3rd, 2/3rd, or a full spool of line.
One advantage of the new off set gear sets is a manufacturer can use larger gears in a lower stronger ratio and still have a fast line recovery rate. The 4.9:1 ratio in the Squall has the same line recovery as the rate as the Abu 7000I HSN does with a 5.3:1 ratio.
Click on picture below for full size view.

Clicker
The clicker is the only carry over from the old Gti series, it's loud and strong. It is different from the Fathom in that it uses two spring plungers to provide tension to the click arm. It makes servicing the non handle side easier because you don't have to remove the click spring to access the idler gear.

Anti-reverse
As all reels should the Squall has two anti-reverse systems an instant anti-reverse bearing and a back up anti-reverse dog.

Casting
The Squall's spool is engaged and disengaged with the lever, which works just fine on a bait reel.
This reel was set up with 50 lb Suffix 832 and a 5oz bank sinker. I set the reel up with a little side to side play and on the first cast the line was wanting to float off the spool a bit. So I tightened the cap down just to that point where I could no longer feel any side to side play. This time the line came off the spool as it should. This reel tied the Tekota TEK 500 in casting distance.
Drag
The drag stack is made up of 3 carbon fiber drag washers backed up by two drag springs. Unlike most reels where the metal washer is keyed to the main gear. This reel has it's Carbon fiber washers keyed to the main gear. In the same fashion as the Fathom.
I zip tied my spring scales to the boat trailer and made a few 30 ft pulls until I hit 15 ½ lbs, so far the drag has been nice and smooth. I am going to do something I never recommend anyone doing, remember this reel is rated at 15 lbs. A little more drag and one more pull. This time 18 ½ lbs, the drag stayed smooth with no visible signs of damage.
Caution never exceed the factory recommended drag settings on this or any reel.
Conclusion
I tried to go into this review with an open mind but in all honesty I had a lot of misgivings about the outcome. I like reels made of brass, aluminum, and stainless steel, just like guns should be steel and or aluminum. Don't need no plastic pistol, or graphite reel. Some times you just have to admit you are wrong and by the way I hate doing that.
The Penn GTI and GT2 were famous for stripping gears, in fact Penn is out of gears. The Squall is a welcome and much needed upgrade to the Penn line.
The 15 and 20 size offer a great lower dollar alternative to the Abu 7000i HCN and 7000i C3's. In the 30 and 50 size an even larger alternative with 20 lbs of drag. In the 15 size it will also make a nice reel for those folks who are seriously over working the 6000 class reels.
Squall 15 compared to a 6500 inshore.

7000 vs 7000 vs 7000 vs 7000

Abu 7000C3 vs Abu 7000iHSN vs 7500i C3 vs Omoto 7000 CSM

• A friend of mine stopped by with the blue Omoto one day and asked about a couple modifications. What resulted was a little mini test that for me got a little out of hand. It wound up costing me a worm gear and 3 spools of mono.

• One of the things you see on forums is someone comparing a 5 year old brand x reel that has been rode hard and put up wet, to a brand new fresh out of the box brand x reel. What they don't seem to remember is the 5 yr. old reel used to work like new, once upon a time.

• • So with the help of the Omoto's owner we did a comparison of the Omoto CSM and the 7000C3.

• Omoto likes to compare the the 7000 AB3 to the Abu 7000iC3, so I decided to throw that reel into the mix as well.

• Then I added one more, an Abu 7000iHSN which is the narrow spool version of the standard 7000iC3.

• The The red 7000C3 is, well anyway it was an unused box queen. The Omoto CSM was new and unused. The 7000iHSN was new and unused. The 7500iC3 had seen some light use last fall.

My Impressions

• With the working parts being interchangeable the Omoto can be no better than the older Abu 7000C3. It is however different. What Omoto did along with a heavier clicker spring, was very slightly reposition the frame posts, add an Instant anit-reverse bearing, (IAR) and install carbon drag washers. The Abu 7000C3 makes an audible click when drag is being pulled, this feature was left off the Omoto. The 7000iC3 has a much different feel than the other two 7000's because of it's free spool release lever and it's larger anti-reverse bearing that off sets the handle.

Comparing drags

• When the 7000C3 was being made carbon fiber drags had not yet became popular. Since the Omoto CSM and the two Abu 7000iC3 had carbon fiber drags, I installed greased carbon fiber drags on the Abu C3. I tore the Omoto and 7000iHSN down and greased the drags to keep everything fair. The 7500iC3's drag had been greased last fall. Omoto doesn't say but since R------- advertises 22 lbs. of drag. That is the standard I used. That did not seem realistic but I used 22lbs as the test weight anyway.

• The drags were tested the same way repeated 3ft. pulls and adjusted in increments until 22 lbs. was reached on the Shimano spring scale. The line guide was centered and traveling towards the handle on all the reels when I started pulling.

• While in the process of increasing the drag the Omoto CSM became jerky at 10 lbs. So I stopped and traced the problem back to the worm gear. I installed an Abu 7000C3 worm gear and that fixed the problem. During the second pull the the instant anti reverse slipped at 19 lbs. causing it to fall back hard on it's anti-reverse dog. I did a second pull at and it slipped hard again. Even with a new worm gear and greased drag a rough spot remained.

• I believe the drag on the 7000C3 was originally rated at 15 lbs. It pulled 22 lbs., it was smooth and consistent and easy to adjust.

• The Abu 75000iC3 is rated for 15 lbs of drag. It pulled 22 lbs and was smooth and consistent and easy to adjust.

• The 7000iHSN is rated for 17 lbs of drag. It pulled 22 lbs and stayed smooth and consistent.and easy to adjust.

• Omoto uses a single drag spring where the Abu 7000C3 use two and the 7000iC# uses three. Overall the Abu's had a little smoother drag than the Omoto. The Abu's were easier to adjust in 1 lb increments than the Omoto. Due I believe to Omoto using a single drag spring.

• Caution use these and all reels at the factory recommended drag settings.

• Hold the Omoto to 15 lbs. Maximum, regardless of retailer advertising.

While it is possible to crank all these reels down to 22 lbs of drag. None of these reels were designed for 22 lbs. of drag. Abu rates the 7000 series at 15lbs. of drag and the iHSN narrow spool and non-levelwind CT's at 17lbs. of drag. On all these reels the frame seems to be the weak link that limits drag. Just because they survived it in my test (more or less anyway) does not mean they will survive that abuse long term. While none of these reels have the drag rating of some of the newer reels coming out, they will survive 19 lbs of drag much longer than a 6500 size reel with it's drag locked down to 19 lbs.

Gear sets

• Two things remain constant when comparing gear sets. The higher numerically you go the more line you can retrieve with each turn of the handle but the weaker the gear set becomes. It does not mater if you are trying to crank in a big cat or just hanging on while he is pulling drag. Either way the gears are rotating and under strain.

• The Omoto's only option is a 5.5:1 ratio, for an old school reel that seems a bit high to me. Abu's standard ratio is 4.1:1, with 5.3:1 available in the narrow spool iHSN Big Game and CT Mag. As rule I prefer the lower 4.1:1 ratio but in the narrow spool iHSN Big Game I liked the 5.3:1 gears. Since the 5.3:1 gears are larger and thicker the the 6500 gears, they should be quite reliable.

• 4.1:1 ratio 22” of line per turn.

• 5.3:1 ratio 28” of line per turn.

• 5.5:1 ratio 29” of line per turn (aprox)

Anti-Reverse

• The Omoto CSM has an IAR bearing along with a backup anti-reverse dog.

• The old Abu 7000C3 uses a anti-reverse dog. Very solid and time proven but lacks the instant stop of the newer reels.

• The 7500iC3 and 7000iHSN have a larger anti-reverse bearing than the Omoto, plus a backup anti-reverse dog. It is a stronger anti-reverse system the the Omoto or the older Abu.

Clickers

• The Abu 7000C3 and Omoto have the same clickers with Omoto using a different spring. They will wake up most people, the Omoto's was a little louder. The clicker arm hits the nylon axle gear.

• The Abu 7000iC3 and 7000iHSN have a clicker similar to a Alphamar and Fathom. The clicker arm hits against a metal gear on the axle. They are louder and stronger than the other two clickers.

• • Line capacity

• • • Abu 7000C3 - 270 yds of 20 lb mono
  • • Omoto 7000 CSM - 270 yds of 20 lb mono
  • • Abu 7000i C3 - 270 yds of 20 lb mono
  • • Abu 7000iH SN – 220 yds of 17 lb mono......................260 yds of 50 lb braid

Casting

• • • To keep every thing fair all the bearings and worm gears were cleaned and re-lubed with Abu Silicate oil. I had to clean oil off the brake weights of the Omoto and on both the Abu's 7000i's, I had to clean grease off the brake weights. I used Stren original 20Lb mono with 30 feet of 40 lb top shot on all the reels except the 7500iC3 it was already spooled with 65 lb Suffix 832. All the casting was done with a 7'6” MH Nite Stick Pro, throwing 3 and 5 oz bank sinkers.
  • • The Omoto CSM and Abu 7000iC3 use the same brake weight set up. The difference being Abu uses fiber weights and Omoto uses plastic weights. Take care adjusting, because once the side plate comes off, the weights can fall off the spool.
  • • The two 7000i reels use four plastic weights that can be turned on or off with out fear of loosing them. To cast pull the lever back to disengage the gears. To engage the gears you can push the lever forward or just turn the handle.
  • • Plus or minus there was no real world difference in casting distance between them when using 5 oz weights. With 3 oz the 7000iHSH had a 20 ft advantage. It was easier to lobe a 1 oz weight with the little 7000iHSN than with the larger reels. That was not really a surprise since smaller reels always cast lighter weights better than larger reels. All these reels were very controllable to cast. Final casting adjustment on all reels was 2 brake weights and no friction from the cast control knob. In the Omoto's case the magnets were also turned off. On the 7500iC3 and 7000iHSN I could still turn off one more brake weight with out loosing control of the spool.

Conclusion

• • • I felt the Omoto's anti-reverse was a bit under engineered for a 7000 size reel, with the 22 lbs.of drag advertised. When the Omoto's worm gear was replaced a rough spot remained when pulling drag. Since this reel was in to have Abu 4.1:1 gears put in it, I went ahead and did that and retested the drag. This time it pulled 18 lbs and was smooth and consistent with the added benefit of Abu's alarm when drag is being pulled. The gears may have suffered some damage when the anti-reverse bearing slipped. I have found problems with Omoto's internal fit and finish before. Parts like the worm gear don't have the same polish as their Abu counter parts. Omoto may have borrowed the design of their competition and lowed the cost. What they have not done is maintain quality and as a result it is a good serviceable reel but not a great reel.
  • • Since the 7000C3 is no longer made I won't say a lot about it. It was and is a great reel that just lacked a couple up grades that the newer reels have. (instant-anti-reverse & carbon fiber drag) Inspite of what it lacked it is still a more refined reel than the Omoto. The addition of a carbon fiber drag made a huge improvement in this reel.
  • • I hear people bashing the 7000I C3 because it is made in China. Get over it. As far as I can see it is every bit as well built as the Swedish models. The only extra plastic or nylon are the two clutch gears. These gears are not a stressed component and should hold up well, so there is no need for more expensive brass gearing here. Replacement cost for them is only $2.58 and $2.83. My only complaint is Abu puts grease on the centrifugal brakes on every sample I have seen. The fix is to remove the handle side and clean the centrifugal brakes with hot soap and water. Then wipe the brake drum with a rag and and some brake cleaner after that put a drop of oil on the shaft where it rides on the pinion gear. The 7000i's are an all new reel with an entirely different feel than the old 7000C3's and Omoto. The 7000i C3 has a large anti-reverse bearing and a side mounted free spool lever and as a result it feels a bit heavy on the handle side when mounted on a rod. That same anti-reverse also makes the 7000iC3, stronger than the Omoto CSM and the Abu 7000C3.
  • • The 7000iHSN is a narrow spool version of the 7000i and has a line capacity closer to a 6500 size reel. In all other respects it identical to the 7000iC3 with a more balanced feel. So if you are someone who abuses 6500's then this might be a reel to consider. The strength of a 7000 in a 6500 size reel. Weighing in at 8.7 oz. more than a 6500C3, it's like a 6500 on steroids. It can pair up well with a 15/30 Ugly White Cat or a Cat Fight rod.

A quick note on the Ming Yang.

• • I also had a Ming Yang here and you will notice, I did not waste a lot of time on the Ming Yang.
• • The Ming Yang is a 7000 size reel with a 6000 size drive shaft. It's internals are stamped out of what appears to be a soft metal. The power handle is so heavy it would engage the spool on a moderate cast. On the drag test the lower metal drag washer stripped at 15 lbs and damaged the drive shaft. Putting the reel out of commission for any further testing. For your money you can do better, enough said about this reel.
• I'll let you draw your own conclusions about these reels. For myself the 7000iHSN is a favorite.

Absorbing Shock and It's Place In Catfishing by Brittan Battles

In a perfect world, we would land every fish we hook...right? But that doesn't happen, no matter what. We lose fish. Due to a hook being shaken, bad hook placement, line breakage, whatever the cause..it happens. However there are plenty of things we can do to keep this to a minimum. For one, don't allow the line to slacken whatsoever. Any slack in the line after a fish is hooked can cause the hook to pop free. If the right components are used in a tackle system, an angler can have confidence that every fish he/she hooks, will soon be laying on the bank or in the bottom of a boat.
A recent conversation with our own Charles Luck brought something to mind that I have never thoroughly thought about. Adding resistance to a fish through setting the hook, reeling or pumping (an up and down rod motion that some people use to fight catfish) can put a massive amount of strain on the reel, rod, line, any terminal tackle components and the point of where the fish is hooked. If none of these components absorbed a great deal of shock, we couldn't possibly keep consistent pressure on a fish from hook set to landing of the fish. The fish's movements are too sporadic and unpredictable. Our tackle HAS to be able to apply steady pressure, while absorbing the shock of the sporadic and sometimes overwhelming movements that fish make while fighting them. I won't speak too much for Chuck. He is a big advocate for using stouter rods, but he also uses monofilament line along with a mono leader. The mono being the major shock absorbing component in his set-up beacause mono has some strech, some brands more than others but never the less. On the other hand, I would rather spool my reel with braided line and use a rod with a slower action or refered to as having a softer tip. The rod being my main component in absorbing shock. Click here for more information on the rods that I like to use. Although Chuck and myself may agree to disagree on the topic of gear selection, both tackle systems essentially do the same thing, right? Both have extreme shock absorbing components and both allow us to control fish from the hook being buried, to the successful netting of a fish!
Any thoughts? What are some of your opinions? Am I wrong? You be the judge. Thanks for reading!
-Brittan