7000 vs 7000 vs 7000 vs 7000

Abu 7000C3 vs Abu 7000iHSN vs 7500i C3 vs Omoto 7000 CSM

• A friend of mine stopped by with the blue Omoto one day and asked about a couple modifications. What resulted was a little mini test that for me got a little out of hand. It wound up costing me a worm gear and 3 spools of mono.

• One of the things you see on forums is someone comparing a 5 year old brand x reel that has been rode hard and put up wet, to a brand new fresh out of the box brand x reel. What they don't seem to remember is the 5 yr. old reel used to work like new, once upon a time.

• • So with the help of the Omoto's owner we did a comparison of the Omoto CSM and the 7000C3.

• Omoto likes to compare the the 7000 AB3 to the Abu 7000iC3, so I decided to throw that reel into the mix as well.

• Then I added one more, an Abu 7000iHSN which is the narrow spool version of the standard 7000iC3.

• The The red 7000C3 is, well anyway it was an unused box queen. The Omoto CSM was new and unused. The 7000iHSN was new and unused. The 7500iC3 had seen some light use last fall.

My Impressions

• With the working parts being interchangeable the Omoto can be no better than the older Abu 7000C3. It is however different. What Omoto did along with a heavier clicker spring, was very slightly reposition the frame posts, add an Instant anit-reverse bearing, (IAR) and install carbon drag washers. The Abu 7000C3 makes an audible click when drag is being pulled, this feature was left off the Omoto. The 7000iC3 has a much different feel than the other two 7000's because of it's free spool release lever and it's larger anti-reverse bearing that off sets the handle.

Comparing drags

• When the 7000C3 was being made carbon fiber drags had not yet became popular. Since the Omoto CSM and the two Abu 7000iC3 had carbon fiber drags, I installed greased carbon fiber drags on the Abu C3. I tore the Omoto and 7000iHSN down and greased the drags to keep everything fair. The 7500iC3's drag had been greased last fall. Omoto doesn't say but since R------- advertises 22 lbs. of drag. That is the standard I used. That did not seem realistic but I used 22lbs as the test weight anyway.

• The drags were tested the same way repeated 3ft. pulls and adjusted in increments until 22 lbs. was reached on the Shimano spring scale. The line guide was centered and traveling towards the handle on all the reels when I started pulling.

• While in the process of increasing the drag the Omoto CSM became jerky at 10 lbs. So I stopped and traced the problem back to the worm gear. I installed an Abu 7000C3 worm gear and that fixed the problem. During the second pull the the instant anti reverse slipped at 19 lbs. causing it to fall back hard on it's anti-reverse dog. I did a second pull at and it slipped hard again. Even with a new worm gear and greased drag a rough spot remained.

• I believe the drag on the 7000C3 was originally rated at 15 lbs. It pulled 22 lbs., it was smooth and consistent and easy to adjust.

• The Abu 75000iC3 is rated for 15 lbs of drag. It pulled 22 lbs and was smooth and consistent and easy to adjust.

• The 7000iHSN is rated for 17 lbs of drag. It pulled 22 lbs and stayed smooth and consistent.and easy to adjust.

• Omoto uses a single drag spring where the Abu 7000C3 use two and the 7000iC# uses three. Overall the Abu's had a little smoother drag than the Omoto. The Abu's were easier to adjust in 1 lb increments than the Omoto. Due I believe to Omoto using a single drag spring.

• Caution use these and all reels at the factory recommended drag settings.

• Hold the Omoto to 15 lbs. Maximum, regardless of retailer advertising.

While it is possible to crank all these reels down to 22 lbs of drag. None of these reels were designed for 22 lbs. of drag. Abu rates the 7000 series at 15lbs. of drag and the iHSN narrow spool and non-levelwind CT's at 17lbs. of drag. On all these reels the frame seems to be the weak link that limits drag. Just because they survived it in my test (more or less anyway) does not mean they will survive that abuse long term. While none of these reels have the drag rating of some of the newer reels coming out, they will survive 19 lbs of drag much longer than a 6500 size reel with it's drag locked down to 19 lbs.

Gear sets

• Two things remain constant when comparing gear sets. The higher numerically you go the more line you can retrieve with each turn of the handle but the weaker the gear set becomes. It does not mater if you are trying to crank in a big cat or just hanging on while he is pulling drag. Either way the gears are rotating and under strain.

• The Omoto's only option is a 5.5:1 ratio, for an old school reel that seems a bit high to me. Abu's standard ratio is 4.1:1, with 5.3:1 available in the narrow spool iHSN Big Game and CT Mag. As rule I prefer the lower 4.1:1 ratio but in the narrow spool iHSN Big Game I liked the 5.3:1 gears. Since the 5.3:1 gears are larger and thicker the the 6500 gears, they should be quite reliable.

• 4.1:1 ratio 22” of line per turn.

• 5.3:1 ratio 28” of line per turn.

• 5.5:1 ratio 29” of line per turn (aprox)

Anti-Reverse

• The Omoto CSM has an IAR bearing along with a backup anti-reverse dog.

• The old Abu 7000C3 uses a anti-reverse dog. Very solid and time proven but lacks the instant stop of the newer reels.

• The 7500iC3 and 7000iHSN have a larger anti-reverse bearing than the Omoto, plus a backup anti-reverse dog. It is a stronger anti-reverse system the the Omoto or the older Abu.

Clickers

• The Abu 7000C3 and Omoto have the same clickers with Omoto using a different spring. They will wake up most people, the Omoto's was a little louder. The clicker arm hits the nylon axle gear.

• The Abu 7000iC3 and 7000iHSN have a clicker similar to a Alphamar and Fathom. The clicker arm hits against a metal gear on the axle. They are louder and stronger than the other two clickers.

• • Line capacity

• • • Abu 7000C3 - 270 yds of 20 lb mono
  • • Omoto 7000 CSM - 270 yds of 20 lb mono
  • • Abu 7000i C3 - 270 yds of 20 lb mono
  • • Abu 7000iH SN – 220 yds of 17 lb mono......................260 yds of 50 lb braid

Casting

• • • To keep every thing fair all the bearings and worm gears were cleaned and re-lubed with Abu Silicate oil. I had to clean oil off the brake weights of the Omoto and on both the Abu's 7000i's, I had to clean grease off the brake weights. I used Stren original 20Lb mono with 30 feet of 40 lb top shot on all the reels except the 7500iC3 it was already spooled with 65 lb Suffix 832. All the casting was done with a 7'6” MH Nite Stick Pro, throwing 3 and 5 oz bank sinkers.
  • • The Omoto CSM and Abu 7000iC3 use the same brake weight set up. The difference being Abu uses fiber weights and Omoto uses plastic weights. Take care adjusting, because once the side plate comes off, the weights can fall off the spool.
  • • The two 7000i reels use four plastic weights that can be turned on or off with out fear of loosing them. To cast pull the lever back to disengage the gears. To engage the gears you can push the lever forward or just turn the handle.
  • • Plus or minus there was no real world difference in casting distance between them when using 5 oz weights. With 3 oz the 7000iHSH had a 20 ft advantage. It was easier to lobe a 1 oz weight with the little 7000iHSN than with the larger reels. That was not really a surprise since smaller reels always cast lighter weights better than larger reels. All these reels were very controllable to cast. Final casting adjustment on all reels was 2 brake weights and no friction from the cast control knob. In the Omoto's case the magnets were also turned off. On the 7500iC3 and 7000iHSN I could still turn off one more brake weight with out loosing control of the spool.

Conclusion

• • • I felt the Omoto's anti-reverse was a bit under engineered for a 7000 size reel, with the 22 lbs.of drag advertised. When the Omoto's worm gear was replaced a rough spot remained when pulling drag. Since this reel was in to have Abu 4.1:1 gears put in it, I went ahead and did that and retested the drag. This time it pulled 18 lbs and was smooth and consistent with the added benefit of Abu's alarm when drag is being pulled. The gears may have suffered some damage when the anti-reverse bearing slipped. I have found problems with Omoto's internal fit and finish before. Parts like the worm gear don't have the same polish as their Abu counter parts. Omoto may have borrowed the design of their competition and lowed the cost. What they have not done is maintain quality and as a result it is a good serviceable reel but not a great reel.
  • • Since the 7000C3 is no longer made I won't say a lot about it. It was and is a great reel that just lacked a couple up grades that the newer reels have. (instant-anti-reverse & carbon fiber drag) Inspite of what it lacked it is still a more refined reel than the Omoto. The addition of a carbon fiber drag made a huge improvement in this reel.
  • • I hear people bashing the 7000I C3 because it is made in China. Get over it. As far as I can see it is every bit as well built as the Swedish models. The only extra plastic or nylon are the two clutch gears. These gears are not a stressed component and should hold up well, so there is no need for more expensive brass gearing here. Replacement cost for them is only $2.58 and $2.83. My only complaint is Abu puts grease on the centrifugal brakes on every sample I have seen. The fix is to remove the handle side and clean the centrifugal brakes with hot soap and water. Then wipe the brake drum with a rag and and some brake cleaner after that put a drop of oil on the shaft where it rides on the pinion gear. The 7000i's are an all new reel with an entirely different feel than the old 7000C3's and Omoto. The 7000i C3 has a large anti-reverse bearing and a side mounted free spool lever and as a result it feels a bit heavy on the handle side when mounted on a rod. That same anti-reverse also makes the 7000iC3, stronger than the Omoto CSM and the Abu 7000C3.
  • • The 7000iHSN is a narrow spool version of the 7000i and has a line capacity closer to a 6500 size reel. In all other respects it identical to the 7000iC3 with a more balanced feel. So if you are someone who abuses 6500's then this might be a reel to consider. The strength of a 7000 in a 6500 size reel. Weighing in at 8.7 oz. more than a 6500C3, it's like a 6500 on steroids. It can pair up well with a 15/30 Ugly White Cat or a Cat Fight rod.

A quick note on the Ming Yang.

• • I also had a Ming Yang here and you will notice, I did not waste a lot of time on the Ming Yang.
• • The Ming Yang is a 7000 size reel with a 6000 size drive shaft. It's internals are stamped out of what appears to be a soft metal. The power handle is so heavy it would engage the spool on a moderate cast. On the drag test the lower metal drag washer stripped at 15 lbs and damaged the drive shaft. Putting the reel out of commission for any further testing. For your money you can do better, enough said about this reel.
• I'll let you draw your own conclusions about these reels. For myself the 7000iHSN is a favorite.

Absorbing Shock and It's Place In Catfishing by Brittan Battles

In a perfect world, we would land every fish we hook...right? But that doesn't happen, no matter what. We lose fish. Due to a hook being shaken, bad hook placement, line breakage, whatever the cause..it happens. However there are plenty of things we can do to keep this to a minimum. For one, don't allow the line to slacken whatsoever. Any slack in the line after a fish is hooked can cause the hook to pop free. If the right components are used in a tackle system, an angler can have confidence that every fish he/she hooks, will soon be laying on the bank or in the bottom of a boat.
A recent conversation with our own Charles Luck brought something to mind that I have never thoroughly thought about. Adding resistance to a fish through setting the hook, reeling or pumping (an up and down rod motion that some people use to fight catfish) can put a massive amount of strain on the reel, rod, line, any terminal tackle components and the point of where the fish is hooked. If none of these components absorbed a great deal of shock, we couldn't possibly keep consistent pressure on a fish from hook set to landing of the fish. The fish's movements are too sporadic and unpredictable. Our tackle HAS to be able to apply steady pressure, while absorbing the shock of the sporadic and sometimes overwhelming movements that fish make while fighting them. I won't speak too much for Chuck. He is a big advocate for using stouter rods, but he also uses monofilament line along with a mono leader. The mono being the major shock absorbing component in his set-up beacause mono has some strech, some brands more than others but never the less. On the other hand, I would rather spool my reel with braided line and use a rod with a slower action or refered to as having a softer tip. The rod being my main component in absorbing shock. Click here for more information on the rods that I like to use. Although Chuck and myself may agree to disagree on the topic of gear selection, both tackle systems essentially do the same thing, right? Both have extreme shock absorbing components and both allow us to control fish from the hook being buried, to the successful netting of a fish!
Any thoughts? What are some of your opinions? Am I wrong? You be the judge. Thanks for reading!
-Brittan

Fishing Reel Maintenance Routine

The purpose of this post is to give you some common sense advice on keeping your reels in optimal condition.  Fishing is inherently destructive to reels.  Between the water, sand, dirt and grime it takes a toll on your reel.  Many of the reels made today are wonders of modern technology!  14 bearings and smooth as silk.  Tolerances have improved and materials have evolved.  However, in order to keep those wonders of modern technology working optimally, you have to invest some time before and after your trips maintaining them.  Given that you after Monster Catfish, your reels need to perform optimally and reliably to give you the best chance of landing the beast of a lifetime.
First I would like to thank Mr. Luck for giving me the opportunity to contribute to his website for the benefit of all fisherman.  If you are reading this you share a passion for fishing in one form or another.    Whether you are targeting Strippers on the east coast, Snook in the bays of Florida, salmon on the west coast or monster catfish we all have something in common.  We fish with a reel, line and pole.  That being said, we are always looking for a little edge, a better technique or better gear.  I was taught by my grandfather to keep things simple and to properly maintain your equipment for optimal results on the water.  He never used any high end gear and yet he was prolific producer of fish.  What he did teach me was the importance of proper maintenance on the gear you had available.
Reel manufactures bank on the fact that most anglers do not maintain their gear.  Use it till it fails and buy a new one.  But, if you develop some basic routines, you can preserve your gear and use it for many years to come.  I have always been one who buys quality equipment and invests to maintain it.  In that way, you end up investing less money overall and you are assured of optimal gear when you need it most.  So here are some recommended best practices on reel maintenance that will protect your investments.

1.  If you buy a new reel have it serviced before putting it into service.  Yes, you read that right.  Here is why.  Manufactures assume you will use it until it fails and then buy another one.  They apply grease in a fashion that fits that strategy.  Too much is applied in certain areas that will impact performance and not enough in areas that will impact longevity.  By having your reel serviced out of the box, it will perform better and last longer, thus reduce the overall cost of using the product.
2. Strange sounds coming from your reel is never a good thing.  High pitched whine while casting is an indication of spool bearings needing oil or replacement if corrosion has set in.  Strange sounds mean a problem that will not just go away.  It does mean that if you continue using it, you will create a bigger more expensive solution.
3. Feel of your reel while in use.  Any binding, clunking, sticky feel, slipping drag, uneven drag, vibrations all indicate a problem.  Further use will only exacerbate the problem.  Take your reel out of service and perform routine maintenance.  Drags should be smooth at all levels of adjustment.  Greased drags will minimize initial startup force and provide a smooth range.  Greased drags are also a preventative measure to fight corrosion.
4. Never dunk your reel in the river or lake thinking this will improve performance.  This just introduces more contaminating objects into areas of the reel ensuring failures in the future.  Just carry a back up reel its cheaper in the long run.
5. If you drop your reel in the sand or lay it on the bank in the dirt, or just throw it in the back of the truck after use, the reel will require more maintenance as dirt, sand and road grime will find its way into your reel impacting performance and reliability.  This is especially true for modern reels with very tight tolerances.  The older Penn reels are famous for their reliability under all conditions as their tolerances are not as tight.
6. Never use WD-40 sprayed directly on your reel.  WD-40 is lacquer based and will collect and solidify inside your reel impacting performance and acting as a magnet for foreign materials.  WD-40 has a place in your maintenance routine but not in this manner.
7. Post fishing routine for you reels.  Simply spray the reel and rod with fresh water at home.  You don't need to blast it, just a quick spray down.  Let the reel dry completely.  Spray your WD-40 on a soft cloth and rub down the exterior of the reel.  WD-40 is a good water dispersant and it works well as an oil and grease remover.  Store in a cool dry area free from dust and other contaminates.  The reel bag that came with your reel is perfect.  I leave the reels on the rods and just cover the reels with the bags.
8. I see many reels come in that have been over loved.  Meaning, guys just think that more grease and oil is better.  It is not.  Feeding your dog is not loving your dog.  Over feeding the dog is slowly killing it.  Same for reels.  Over oiling and greasing your reel impacts performance and makes for a nightmare of a clean up.  (1) Drop of oil on each spool bearing regularly is plenty.  Any more than that is just waste as it will be thrown from the bearing into the reel to collect more dirt and grime.  Level winds need a drop on each end and (1) drop on the pawl.  Since the level wind is so exposed to the elements it needs constant attention to maintain great cast-ability.
9. Annual maintenance routines.  Clearly, this depends on many factors not the least of which is how often the reel has been used, how it has been maintained and the amount of time on the drags.  I have seen it all in my shop.  Reels that look unused on the outside, and completely corroded in on the inside.  Reels that are so seized up the spool won't spin at all.  Level wind mechanisms that have to be completely replaced from lack of oil and corrosion build up.
10. If your reel is not casting the distance it once did, two areas of the reel need attention.  Level wind mechanics have always hindered casting distance.  In the newer reels there are bearings on each end of the level wind gear to minimize drag.  So make sure you clean and oil them regularly.  The other area is spool bearings.

Thank you again for the opportunity to share some experience and good luck in your "Quest for Monster Catfish"
Andy Smith, on the web at supertunereels.com, on Twitter @supertunereels and Facebook at supertunereels.com

Introduction - Brittan Battles

For many of us fishing for trophy catfish isn't only just a hobby. It a passion and can honestly, mold a way of life if you let it. It teaches one to be patient, resilient and always observing. All three of these qualities are key concepts to having any success when chasing these giants. These qualities also translate into everyday life and are great things to possess when looking for success outside of catfishing. My name is Brittan Battles and I am completely obsessed with chasing huge Flathead, Blue and Channel catfish.

 I grew up on a farm and in a small community in rural northwest Ohio. I fished as a kid, maybe not as much as some, but I enjoyed fishing for bass, bluegill and crappie in small local ponds and lakes. I wasn't introduced to the world of catfishing until late May of 2007 by my future (now) father-in-law. I started off spending every weekend at local reservoirs and stocked ponds owned by the many fish and game clubs in the area, just for the first few years. Now residing in the northeastern part of Ohio and I spend most of my time traveling to the best fisheries in the state for whatever species I am targeting, usually Flatheads.

Enough about me, I would like to mention a few of the things that I have implemented that have been keys to my success. When looking for trophy fish, don't be afraid to travel to the best fisheries in the area. It can make a huge difference in setting a personal best every season or going home with no action trip after trip. On average I drive about 70 miles each way to the body of water that I want to fish on that given trip, be a river or a lake. Modern day catfisherman have an edge,and its called the internet. Read, network with other fisherman and plan for success. Through the internet and networking I have met many other catfisherman that strive for success just as I do. Why waste your time? You can actively fish for these beasts. Too many guys just toss out baits in a convenient spot for them or a spot that has produced in the past and expect results every trip. That's not how it works. More on that in the future.

Until next time guys! I am excited to be a part of The Quest For Monster Catfish and I look forward to hearing from some of you. Tight Lines!

Spring Transition Flatheads

Intercepting Spring Transition Flatheads

            With any form of flathead fishing, success depends on piecing together parts of the puzzle that is a successful pattern.  Considering all of the variables that play into fish location and movement, it can seem like a daunting task.  This is accentuated even more in large reservoirs, where fish can travel through a wide open expanse of water from one destination to the next.  Flathead fishing success in  reservoirs relies in large part on defining exactly what pieces of the puzzle are important when, and how to put the most pieces together at any given time to give yourself a shot at success.  In this post I’d like to take a look at the transition period from late winter to spring, and go over some of the variables or “puzzle pieces” that have proven successful in large reservoirs across the U.S.

            It is widely known that flathead catfish become relatively dormant when water temperatures fall below a certain level.  In the Midwest, most anglers experience greatly diminished success when surface temperatures drop below 45 degrees.  Up until this point, the more successful anglers have been locating feeding fish en-route to water in which they can spend the winter.  Once in a wintering area, flatheads seem to feed (with increasingly sluggish behavior) in that area until a point when they finally turn it off for the winter. Winter flathead fishing is possible, and in some circumstances (under the right conditions) I believe flatheads will take a bait.  More popular this time of year, though, is a controversial method of jigging large soft baits on heavy lead directly over suspected wintering holes. In order to avoid an ethical debate here, we will fast forward to  early spring.

            So, what’s the earliest you’ve landed a flathead during the spring? Better yet, what’s the earliest you’ve had success while actually targeting the species?  The general consensus across the board is that most flathead anglers in the Midwest begin to dust off their gear in late April and begin experiencing consistent success into May (subtract a month further into the south, give or take). But we’ve all seen it. Every year several flathead pictures make their way around the internet of large fish caught long before anyone’s thinking about fishing for them, by someone fishing for another species.  This is certainly no coincidence.

Piece #1: Timing

            The reservoir flathead has to be considered differently than flatheads in rivers.  They are normally not governed by current, and relate much more to certain solitary “home” areas than do river fish.  This also means that if a large flathead doesn't like something about a particular day (whether its temperature, barometric pressure, water influx, etc.) he can sit still on his happy butt and wait to move until conditions are more to his liking.  This brings us to the first spring time puzzle piece: Timing.  Over the years we’ve noticed that a flathead really can show up at any time, but good days (the days producing more than one fish) seem to be good days across the board.  With several large lakes in my home state exhibiting fishable flathead populations, we can compare reports across the state and take note of trends.  What we’ve come to realize is that a good portion of the time, if we have a good multiple fish trip, it’s not the only one in the area and normally one of several.  But what triggered this onslaught of feeding behavior?  Let’s think.  Early in the season, most anglers flock to their favorite lake or reservoir on the warmest, sunny days.  Spring warm up begins to lift water temperatures, and fish like saugeye, crappie, and largemouth bass begin to leave deep water in search of warmer habitat.  It comes as no surprise then that most early season, accidental flathead catches seem to occur on warm, sunny days.  Usually at the peak of the warmest part of the day, too.  Early in the season, this warm sunny weather is a flathead's alarm clock. Just like in the fall, they will feed sluggishly and probably not go far. But you better believe they’re hungry.  A mistake many anglers make is the belief that flathead are solely nocturnal predators.  During most of the season, this is the case.  We have outlined, however, that flathead catfish activity is largely governed by water temperature.  Anglers itching to target flathead in early spring would be wise to note warming trends, and to pick warm days that come after a string of other warm sunny days.  Fish in unfavorable conditions this early in the season and 9 times out of 10 you will find you’re just out for a boat ride.

Piece #2: Bait

Coming off of a fall bite where no piece of bait seemed too big for a hungry flathead to eat, many anglers make the mistake of offering these same baits to fish early in the year. When it comes down to it, flatheads are opportunistic and may take any bait like this presented in the right place.  What one must also keep in mind, though, is that flatheads are top predators and will weigh the energy cost of catching and consuming a bait against the nutritional gain they take from eating it.  When flathead are slow and sluggish, fighting a metabolism that’s been at a creeping pace all winter, they may be more likely to pass up a big, lively bait that could present a challenge to catch and kill.  Instead, try offering smaller live baits and even pieces of cut bait in areas where flatheads will likely be trying to shake off the dust and find an easy meal.  Cut shad can be deadly then, as winter kill settles to the bottom before it begins to bloat and float with the wind to shallow bays (the channel cat café).  Don’t be afraid to mix one or two large baits into your set, as it could pay off big time. Just keep in mind that on average, smaller baits or fresh cut bait are easier to catch and kill to a flathead moving in slow motion.  Remember the guy holding a 40lb bruiser with a saugeye jig stuck in its mouth, or the crappie fisherman who got spooled using minnows.

Piece #3: Location

So you’ve had several warm days in a row, and the forecast is calling for sunny skies and an afternoon temperature in the low 60’s.  Seems like as good a chance as any for an early spring fish.  Location is the next piece of the puzzle to put in place.  Flatheads will start to “wake up” with a string of warm weather and favorable pressure like this, but may not begin to migrate to traditional late spring water until this weather becomes more of a normal thing.  In the mean time, they’ll shake off the cobwebs and begin milling around near winter water.  The key here is to find transition points that offer a good chance at contacting fish waking up from their slumber.  In early spring, bays at the northern ends of large reservoirs typically warm first.  So run to the warmest bay you can find and give it hell? Not yet.  Fish like largemouth bass and crappie that have maintained an active metabolism all winter will begin to chase the warmest water very early on.  Flatheads seem to take their time.  Take a look at a good topographical map and locate what looks like a likely wintering area for flathead catfish in that lake.  Then, look for shallow water within reasonable distance to this wintering water that is likely to warm up first.  Typically bays or fingers of the lake that receive windblown water from the south and have creeks flowing into them will thaw and warm the fastest. Now, take a look at the path from point A (your winter area) to point B (your warm spring bay).  What is the most likely path of travel between these areas that a flathead may take as the water begins to warm?  In many cases, this may be a drop-off edge or creek channel.  Now look more closely.  What details of this structural feature make good areas for flatheads to lazily browse for food as their metabolism starts to ramp back up? A channel bend holding wood or other habitat? The confluence of another channel coming out of a bay to the main channel?  Stick close to likely winter water very early in the year, but begin to follow the path from point A to point B as the warming trend continues.  If you’re contacting fish then suddenly lose contact with them for several straight trips, move on down the line to the next interesting feature in their path. Find active fish on the right days and follow them as they begin to branch out further and further from winter water, and I bet they eventually lead you to prime time, late spring water. You’ll follow them to these areas right about the same time of year that everyone else is just dusting off their gear and thinking about giving it a shot.

During the wait for spring, now is a good time to clean and repair gear, sharpen hooks, stock up on the necessities, and get to studying those maps. Or in my case (or nutcase, if you will), wade around hip deep in the frozen steelhead rivers of the Great Lakes and look jealously at pictures of enormous cold water blue cats.

Until next time, tight lines guys. 

Penn Fathom Review

 

Yes I am talking about catfishing. 

In the late 80's round reels like the Abu 4500's were king of the bass reels and why not. They could cast 3/8 and 1/2 oz lures just fine and they could double as channel cat reels. But. Casting 600 times a day chasing bass (bait fish) would take a tool on levelwinds. Bass fishing got bigger and reel manufactures could smell money. Reels began to evolve a little, levelwinds would disengage and 6.3:1 ratios became more popular. Frames became cast aluminum and then low profile. All this left a new weakness. The 6.3:1 gear ratios were not holding up to deep diving crank baits and they were causing a bit of cranking fatigue. Stainless steel gears would have solved the strength problem but they are noisy and it would not fix the effort needed to reel in crank baits. The answer was to enlarge and lower the main gear. In order to keep the same gear ratio the pinion had to be enlarged as well. All this lowered the reels center of gravity, increased line retrieve speed, and reduced the effort needed at the handle.

Compare the Fathom to an old school reel like the 310 GTi or 209M and you will see the difference between the old school reels and the new technologies. This is not your dads Penn.

When pick you up an Alphamar and a Fathom at the same time you will notice it feels different. It's hard to put you hands on just what the difference is but I decided it was just the Fathoms extra weight. 17.7oz. vs 19.2oz. You will notice the handle, it is more comfortable than the Alphamar's. 

Tear Down and Inspection

The two reels may be quite similar but the Penn is a step up from the Alphamar in several ways. Both reels feathure the same aluminum frame, the primary difference being color. The Alphamar ueses graphite side plates and aluminum rings for reinforcement. The Fahom uses aluminun side plates for it's extra strength and rigidity with no reinforcing rings needed.

Drive shaft is Stainless Steel and supported by a bearing on the bottom as well as being supported by the IAR bearing on the handle end. This gives the reel a smoother feel than the 7000iC3. The spool is supported on the left by the side plate. On the right side the bearing is mounted on the spool shaft and supported by the frame. Contrast this to the 7000's that support their spool shafts outboard on the sideplates. Moving the right bearing inboard and supporting it with the frame along with a heavier spool shaft allows the Fathom to handle much more drag, with out axle flex. You will also notice a complete lack of plastic in the mechanism.

For gearheads the design is simple and is easy to disassemble, without any hidden surprises like springs that fly off to who knows where.

 

Drag

The drag on the Fathom is for lack of a better way to describe it unique. Versa-Drag is what Penn calls it. Unlike most reels the carbon fiber drag washers have ears that tie it to the main gear. On this reel rearanging the drag washer will allow you to lower maximum obtainable drag. It comes set for max drag, so basicaly you can use it like all other star drag reels.

I hooked it to my trusty Shimano spring scale for a drag test, it pulled 27 lbs and was smooth and consistant all the way. At this point I stopped. The way I test drags is to put the scale loosly in a vise, tie the line to it and walk back a few feet. Then I reel in tighten more drag and repeat until I reach my goal. This has always worked until now. After pulling 5, 11 15, 20, 25, and 27 lbs, on the same few ft of line. The braid was digging in a bit, so before I dug it in even more I stopped. I need to do this out side when pulling that much drag, so I can keep walking back with out reeling back in.   

Caution never exceed the factory recommended drag settings on this or any reel.

Gear sets

Both reels share a common stainless steel pinion gear, but the Alphamar uses a brass main gear. While the Fathom uses a bronze alloy main gear. Both materials are copper based. The difference being Brass uses Zinc and Bronze uses Tin to make the alloy, the tin makes for a much stronger alloy. Just for a comparison I set a 7000 main gear beside the Fathom gears, so you can see the difference in size. The gear set on the fathom is larger than most of the common cat reels and with a 4.3:1 ratio should be capable of handling any flathead. 

Anti-Reverse

The Fathom uses two anti-reverse systems. The first is an instant anti-reverse bearing, and as a backup an anti-reverse dog. I believe that all reels should have both systems, so much so that I have added the anti-reverse dog to all my 6000's.

Clickers

The Fathom has the normal line out alarm, mounted high on the left side for easy access. It's loud and easy to turn on and off. It also has a clicker on the star drag and a clicker on the cast adjustment knob. For a total of three. 

Line Capacity and Recovery

Line Capacity on the 15 size is 17/280 for mono and 50/300 for braid. On the fathom 15 that works out to about 65/230 for braid. One nice feature of the spool is it has a mushroom post, so braid users will not have to use a mono backing or wrap the spool with electrical tape. Just tie directly to the post and you are good to go. Line recovery is 24” per handle turn of the handle. The handle is adjustable for length of throw, the short throw is the same as the Alphamar's. Moving the handle to the outer most hole gives you an extra 3/8 inch of handle throw for more leverage. Another feature is line capacity rings, that let you know when you reach or get down to 1/3rd, 2/3rd, or a full spool of line.

Casting

Okay I have to admit I did not take this reel out and cast it. The first reason being its raining and cold. I didn't want to be out in it. The second reason is it's cold and the bearings are lubed with grease, cold grease doesn't spin up as well as warm grease. So it would not be a fair test of the reels ability.

I did test an Alphamar 12 a while back, it is the same size as the Fathom 15. In fact the spools will interchange. The Alphamar 12 beat my 7500iC3 HS CHR by 75 ft. both reels casting 65 lb. braid and 5 oz. Bank sinkers. I have no reason to believe the Fathom will be any different.

Conclusion

There are a lot of great reels being made today, as cat fisherman we have never had so many choices. For the money you will be hard pressed to find a better reel for trophy cat fishing. As much as I liked the Alphamar's with out a doubt, the Penn is a step up in class.

 

 

 

Shimano Tekota TEK500

                                                        Shimano Tekota TEK500

My Impressions

I got bamboozled into doing a free cleaning in exchange for being able to do a review on this reel. Still not sure what I got out of this deal. LOL But anyway, Thanks to go the tncathunter for giving up this reel for 2 weeks.

The Tekota is one of those reels I have thought about getting for some time but for some reason didn't. Now that Abu Garcia has decided to drop the original Alphamar, that will change. When you first pick up the Tekota it gives the impression of being solid and well built. The handle is solid with out being overly heavy and it has a very comfortable grip.

Teardown and Inspection

The frame is diecast aluminum, and the drive side plate is stamped aluminum. The non-handle side plate is aluminum braced graphite. The graphite plate is thick and in-cased on the outside in aluminum so it is quite strong. The reel foot is stainless steel and riveted to the frame.

One thing that impressed me was the release mechanism was simple and the parts were heavy, so there should be no problems with it. The spool shaft is well supported by the frame, thereby keeping flex to a minimum.

Overall the Tekota is not a complicated to reel tear down but (there's always a but) look out for the drag clicker spring and pin when you remove the drag star. They are small and easy to loose. The reel will work just as well without them, the drag star just won't click when you turn it.

Drag

Shimano uses their Dartainium drag washers and they are known for being good drags. Not knowing how much the reel had been used, I wasn't sure how the drag would perform. It did however pull it's advertised 18 lbs of drag and was smooth throughout the drags entire rating.

Caution with this and all reels, never exceed the factory recommended drag settings.

Gear Set

The Tekota has a 4.2:1 gear ratio and retrieves 25 inches of line per turn. Which makes it a little faster than the Abu 7000iC3 and a little slower than a Fathom. The gears are about the same size as the gears in the 7000i C3 so they should give no problem. 

 

Anti-Reverse

The Tekota has an anti-reverse bearing and a anti reverse dog. Its always a good idea to have a back up to the IAR bearing.

Clickers

The Tekota has 2 clickers, the line out alarm is a simple design and loud enough to wake you up. Should you want to catch a few zzzz's at 2AM. It also has a clicker on the drag star. This will allow you to count clicks and return the drag to it's original position.

 

Line capacity

The spool has a mushroom post on it so braid users can tie directly to it and will not have to use a backing or warp the spool with electrical tape.

Test/Yards

mono 14/340, 16/285

braid 50/385, 65/365

Casting

This was a used reel so I couldn't check the casting in its fresh out of the box condition. So I gave it a good cleaning and lubed it in the same manor as I would a Penn Fathom. Casting distance fell right between the Abu 7000i C3's and an Alphamar 12. It was set with a little side to side spool play. Casting weights between 2 and 5 ounces, I never had to use my thumb to keep the spool under control.

Like Abu's Alphamar the Tekota does not have an auto engage when you turn the handle. Instead you must flip the lever back up to it's original position to engage the reel after casting. Myself I don't miss the auto-engage. It doesn't take long and flipping the lever becomes as natural as turning the handle to engage the spool.

Conclusion

The Tekota TEK 500, is about the same size as a Penn Fathom 15 or to put it another way. A little bit wider han a narrow spool 7000i HSN and a bit narrower than a 7000I C3. If you need more capacity there is a 600 size as well. The Tekota TEK 500 not only gives the impression of being well built, it is well built, smooth and great buy for anyone looking for a reel this size.