Bottom Dwellers Tackle: Catfight Series - Knockout Rod Review

The relatively new Catfight series of rods offered by Bottom Dwellers Tackle are quickly gaining popularity across the catfishing community, and for good reason.  These rods offer good components, solid construction, and fit in a wide range of applications.  The first two rods in the series (the original "Catfight" and the "Take Down" editions) have swept the blue cat scene and quickly proved their worth fishing large cut and live baits on circle hooks.  Both rods feature a relatively soft tip, backed up by plenty of power through the middle and butt sections of the rod.  They've become popular among flathead fishermen as well, with the soft tip proving to be forgiving on those hard, charging runs that large flatheads are notorious for.  Those looking for a bit more "oomph" from a catfish rod, and a bit more rigidity for heavy hooksets with large J-style hooks may have been left wanting by the first two rods in this series, though.  Until now, that is.  Que the Bottom Dwellers Tackle "Knockout" rod.
[caption id="attachment_510" align="aligncenter" width="225"] Bottom Dwellers "Knockout" rod with a Shimano Tekota 600.[/caption]
Lets take a quick look at some of the specs:

• a one piece blank through handle construction (just like its two "little" brothers in the Catfight family)
•  solid stainless steel "gunsmoke" guides and tip
• matching "gunsmoke" aluminum reel seat that screws up from the bottom (towards the reel)
• a 14" cork handle and 8" cork foregrip
• a 7'9" composite blank rated for 20-60 pound test line and a 2-20 ounce casting capability
• an innovative black/white/gray digital camo wrap finished with a high-vis, white tip that glows when charged by a light source

Lets start with the initial impressions and appearance of the rod:
When I first un-boxed the knockout rod, I'll admit I was impressed.  The "gunsmoke" metal accents really set off of the blacks and grays in the digital camo wrap.  Couple this with a classy cork handle and a white tip and this rod was not hard to look at.  Holding the Knockout rod feels a bit like holding a battle ax without a reel on it.  It's not overly heavy, but it is a very solid piece of gear.  The cork handle is thicker than I expected it to be, and at first I thought this would be a hindrance.  After fishing the rod in several applications, I've not been hindered by the handle size by any means, and it offers a solid grip on the rod.  I've fished this rod coupled with anything from Shimano Tekota 600's and Abu Garcia Alphamar 20's, up to a big Penn GT 330, and all appeared (and felt) balanced on this stick.
[caption id="attachment_517" align="aligncenter" width="300"] "Gunsmoke" aluminum reel seat.[/caption]
The reel seat on this rod provides a very solid lock on your reel, as it screws up towards the reel from behind.  Be careful the first time or two you change reels with this handle though, as it seems to take a few passes for the threads to get "broken in."  As far as looks go, this rod is a head turner, and easy to spot in the dark.  Be prepared to field questions and compliments when showing up to the lake or river with this one.
Now, the down and dirty: Performance
My first impressions of this rod while fishing were that it was almost "too heavy" for my style of fishing.  I generally fish J-style or Kahle hooks for flatheads in reservoirs, so a good hook set is crucial.  This rod will certainly pack the punch you need in this situation, but has a more forgiving tip than I originally thought before putting a few fish on the rod.  Fishing the rod with braided line, I found myself setting the hook a bit too hard on a few fish.  I had no worry of breaking the line by doing this, but immediate drag slip and a bent hook or two later I found myself taming down my usual hook set.  Fished with monofilament line such as Berkley Big Game or Ande Premium, this rod provides the power and "swing" to overcome line stretch and drive those big hooks home.
[caption id="attachment_514" align="aligncenter" width="225"] Putting a bend in the Knockout rod with about 15 pounds of drag.[/caption]
Fishing this rod with large circle hooks for big river blues is effective as well, as the tip section dips under light takes and buries when a fish slams your bait.  For light biting fish in cold water, I noticed that the tip may not be as forgiving in this sense as the original Catfight and the Catfight "Takedown" rods.  Remember, though, that this is a rod designed for heavy applications.  If a very soft rod tip is necessary for the conditions you face, other rods provide that more effectively (i.e. the first two Catfight series rods, the Ugly Stick Tiger Rods, etc.) In one instance on the James River in Virginia, I hooked a fish directly in a large snag in around 40 feet of water.  Putting maximum pressure on the fish, I thought I was moving both the snag and fish towards the boat.  After several hard pumps of the rod, it was directly below the boat. Or were we above the snag?  I had pulled the 24' Carolina skiff, along with the anchor, downriver to the snag.  The 40 pound test Berkley Big Game had to be broken eventually and the fish was lost, but this demonstrated the true power of the 60 pound line rating on this blank.
[caption id="attachment_520" align="aligncenter" width="300"] Locked in battle with a James River blue in some lumber, pulling the boat and anchor.[/caption]
Casting the Knockout is a pleasure, as the 7'9" length and moderate tip easily catapult baits up to 22 ounces.  I've fished large livebaits that combined with their rig certainly pressed past this 22 ounce rating without issue, but I never recommend fishing a rod beyond its ratings.
While fighting fish, the Knockout proves its name. The power through the butt and middle of this stick is impressive, putting the brakes on angry flatheads without issue.  The moderate tip of this rod came in handy with angry fish nearing the net, as it provides some shock absorbency when a large fish makes that one final run.
[caption id="attachment_513" align="aligncenter" width="300"] A tip view of the Knockout rod, showing its taper towards the butt section.[/caption]
Applications:
As I mentioned above, my primary focus throughout the season is targeting large reservoir flatheads in my home state of Ohio.  The Knockout rod is well designed for this task.  Fishing either float or bottom rigs, casting baits or dropping baits from a boat at distance, the power and length of the Knockout rod perform these tasks with ease.  I personally prefer to fish this rod with monofilament line, as my hooksets with this rod in combination with heavy braid have been detrimental. I do enjoy the power of this rod when setting the hook on flatheads a good way away from the bank, though, as it takes away from some of the walking or "running" hooksets sometimes necessary with mono from over 70 yards away.
[caption id="attachment_518" align="aligncenter" width="225"] A solid Ohio flathead that fell victim to the Knockout rod.[/caption]
For river blue cat fishing, this rod certainly has the power to lift stubborn fish in heavy flows or cast the heavy lead necessary to hold baits in said flows. The tip is supple enough to signal light bites, but may leave you wanting more tip flex if fish are not in a rod-burying mood.  This rod does bend nicely under immense strain, though, and does not act like a complete broom stick while fighting fish.
[caption id="attachment_519" align="aligncenter" width="225"] A view of the Knockout rod on the James River, alongside the Black and Blue 7'6" and the Black and Blue 7'10" rods for comparison.[/caption]
Remember, this is a rod built for targeting the largest trophy catfish that swim in our waters.  Consider your objectives before purchasing a rod, and choose accordingly.  If gaining the upper hand on fish above 40 pounds is your goal, then the Catfight "Knockout" edition may be the rod for you.  I would not, however, expect a rod with a 60 pound line rating and 22 ounce lure rating to be the best choice for channel cat fishing, or catching a mess of smaller fish for the table.  This rod was designed to complete the Catfight series of rods from Bottom Dwellers Tackle as the heavy hitter in their lineup, and I think it fits that description perfectly.  These rods are available from Dave Ashby over at bottomdwellerstackle.com, and fetch a price tag of $79.95.

Penn Squall Review by Abu Doc

Penn Squall Review
It's kind of risky knowing me, I got wind of someone who bought himself a new Squall. Before he even had a chance to put line on it, I was there asking to take it apart. Okay everyone you have been warned, tell me about your new reel at your own risk.
Penn has made a couple of reels for deep water small fish. I say that because they had a lot of line capacity but only 11 lbs. of drag.
From the late 80s to 2008 the Penn built the GTI and from 2008 until the Fall 2013 the GT2. The one thing these reels had in common was size. 310, 320, 330 etc. I hope you didn't like them because they are gone but in their place is the Penn Squall.
The Squall is built with the same spool capacities as it's Predecessors meaning. The 15 is replacing the 310, the 20 is replacing the 320, the 30 is replacing the 330 and the 50 is replacing the 40 & 45. That is where the similarities end. Anything that looked like the old reels was thrown out and in it's place is a reel that looks like the Fathom's little brother. It can do anything the old reels can do and on top of that it's going to make a nice catfish reel.

Tear Down and Inspection
In order to keep the price down below the Fathoms the Squall is built with a graphite frame and side plates. There are several things I noticed when the right side plate was pulled off, none of which I was expecting. There is a lack of plastic in the mechanism, it's stainless steel. There is also an audible clicker on the drag star and tension cap.
The Squall's spool shaft is supported by the frame on the drive side and the non handle side plate. Moving the drive side spool bearing in board off the side plate, adds rigidity to the spool shaft and gear set. The area where the reel foot is riveted on is thicker than the GTI's. The Squall also has 2 additional braces on the back of the frame to help keep frame flex to a minimum.
It's an easy reel to tear down for maintenance with no hidden surprises like springs that fly off, never to be seen again.

Gear Set
Where the old 310GTi used a brass drive shaft the Squall uses stainless steel. The 310GTi used brass main and pinion gears, the Squall is upgraded with a stainless pinion and bronze alloy main gear. Compare the gears side by side with the 7000C gears and you will find the Squall gears are larger. Another welcome upgrade, on the GTi the gears are supported by the right side plate and held together by a bridge assembly and 4 screws. Good enough for a reel with 11 lbs of drag. On the Squall the gears are supported by the frame and side plate, which is a much stronger system.

Squall and 7000C gears compared

Squall gear set

GTI gear set
Line Recovery and Capacity.
The 15 size is about the same size as the 7000i HSN, the 20 is comparable to a 7000i. Move up to the 30 and 50 size and you get a larger frame and gear set, as well as 20 lbs of drag. Something Penn has done different on this reel is to add a knurled section to the center of the spool to keep the line from slipping. Line capacity rings are also on the spool to show when you have 1/3rd, 2/3rd, or a full spool of line.
One advantage of the new off set gear sets is a manufacturer can use larger gears in a lower stronger ratio and still have a fast line recovery rate. The 4.9:1 ratio in the Squall has the same line recovery as the rate as the Abu 7000I HSN does with a 5.3:1 ratio.
Click on picture below for full size view.

Clicker
The clicker is the only carry over from the old Gti series, it's loud and strong. It is different from the Fathom in that it uses two spring plungers to provide tension to the click arm. It makes servicing the non handle side easier because you don't have to remove the click spring to access the idler gear.

Anti-reverse
As all reels should the Squall has two anti-reverse systems an instant anti-reverse bearing and a back up anti-reverse dog.

Casting
The Squall's spool is engaged and disengaged with the lever, which works just fine on a bait reel.
This reel was set up with 50 lb Suffix 832 and a 5oz bank sinker. I set the reel up with a little side to side play and on the first cast the line was wanting to float off the spool a bit. So I tightened the cap down just to that point where I could no longer feel any side to side play. This time the line came off the spool as it should. This reel tied the Tekota TEK 500 in casting distance.
Drag
The drag stack is made up of 3 carbon fiber drag washers backed up by two drag springs. Unlike most reels where the metal washer is keyed to the main gear. This reel has it's Carbon fiber washers keyed to the main gear. In the same fashion as the Fathom.
I zip tied my spring scales to the boat trailer and made a few 30 ft pulls until I hit 15 ½ lbs, so far the drag has been nice and smooth. I am going to do something I never recommend anyone doing, remember this reel is rated at 15 lbs. A little more drag and one more pull. This time 18 ½ lbs, the drag stayed smooth with no visible signs of damage.
Caution never exceed the factory recommended drag settings on this or any reel.
Conclusion
I tried to go into this review with an open mind but in all honesty I had a lot of misgivings about the outcome. I like reels made of brass, aluminum, and stainless steel, just like guns should be steel and or aluminum. Don't need no plastic pistol, or graphite reel. Some times you just have to admit you are wrong and by the way I hate doing that.
The Penn GTI and GT2 were famous for stripping gears, in fact Penn is out of gears. The Squall is a welcome and much needed upgrade to the Penn line.
The 15 and 20 size offer a great lower dollar alternative to the Abu 7000i HCN and 7000i C3's. In the 30 and 50 size an even larger alternative with 20 lbs of drag. In the 15 size it will also make a nice reel for those folks who are seriously over working the 6000 class reels.
Squall 15 compared to a 6500 inshore.

7000 vs 7000 vs 7000 vs 7000

Abu 7000C3 vs Abu 7000iHSN vs 7500i C3 vs Omoto 7000 CSM

• A friend of mine stopped by with the blue Omoto one day and asked about a couple modifications. What resulted was a little mini test that for me got a little out of hand. It wound up costing me a worm gear and 3 spools of mono.

• One of the things you see on forums is someone comparing a 5 year old brand x reel that has been rode hard and put up wet, to a brand new fresh out of the box brand x reel. What they don't seem to remember is the 5 yr. old reel used to work like new, once upon a time.

• • So with the help of the Omoto's owner we did a comparison of the Omoto CSM and the 7000C3.

• Omoto likes to compare the the 7000 AB3 to the Abu 7000iC3, so I decided to throw that reel into the mix as well.

• Then I added one more, an Abu 7000iHSN which is the narrow spool version of the standard 7000iC3.

• The The red 7000C3 is, well anyway it was an unused box queen. The Omoto CSM was new and unused. The 7000iHSN was new and unused. The 7500iC3 had seen some light use last fall.

My Impressions

• With the working parts being interchangeable the Omoto can be no better than the older Abu 7000C3. It is however different. What Omoto did along with a heavier clicker spring, was very slightly reposition the frame posts, add an Instant anit-reverse bearing, (IAR) and install carbon drag washers. The Abu 7000C3 makes an audible click when drag is being pulled, this feature was left off the Omoto. The 7000iC3 has a much different feel than the other two 7000's because of it's free spool release lever and it's larger anti-reverse bearing that off sets the handle.

Comparing drags

• When the 7000C3 was being made carbon fiber drags had not yet became popular. Since the Omoto CSM and the two Abu 7000iC3 had carbon fiber drags, I installed greased carbon fiber drags on the Abu C3. I tore the Omoto and 7000iHSN down and greased the drags to keep everything fair. The 7500iC3's drag had been greased last fall. Omoto doesn't say but since R------- advertises 22 lbs. of drag. That is the standard I used. That did not seem realistic but I used 22lbs as the test weight anyway.

• The drags were tested the same way repeated 3ft. pulls and adjusted in increments until 22 lbs. was reached on the Shimano spring scale. The line guide was centered and traveling towards the handle on all the reels when I started pulling.

• While in the process of increasing the drag the Omoto CSM became jerky at 10 lbs. So I stopped and traced the problem back to the worm gear. I installed an Abu 7000C3 worm gear and that fixed the problem. During the second pull the the instant anti reverse slipped at 19 lbs. causing it to fall back hard on it's anti-reverse dog. I did a second pull at and it slipped hard again. Even with a new worm gear and greased drag a rough spot remained.

• I believe the drag on the 7000C3 was originally rated at 15 lbs. It pulled 22 lbs., it was smooth and consistent and easy to adjust.

• The Abu 75000iC3 is rated for 15 lbs of drag. It pulled 22 lbs and was smooth and consistent and easy to adjust.

• The 7000iHSN is rated for 17 lbs of drag. It pulled 22 lbs and stayed smooth and consistent.and easy to adjust.

• Omoto uses a single drag spring where the Abu 7000C3 use two and the 7000iC# uses three. Overall the Abu's had a little smoother drag than the Omoto. The Abu's were easier to adjust in 1 lb increments than the Omoto. Due I believe to Omoto using a single drag spring.

• Caution use these and all reels at the factory recommended drag settings.

• Hold the Omoto to 15 lbs. Maximum, regardless of retailer advertising.

While it is possible to crank all these reels down to 22 lbs of drag. None of these reels were designed for 22 lbs. of drag. Abu rates the 7000 series at 15lbs. of drag and the iHSN narrow spool and non-levelwind CT's at 17lbs. of drag. On all these reels the frame seems to be the weak link that limits drag. Just because they survived it in my test (more or less anyway) does not mean they will survive that abuse long term. While none of these reels have the drag rating of some of the newer reels coming out, they will survive 19 lbs of drag much longer than a 6500 size reel with it's drag locked down to 19 lbs.

Gear sets

• Two things remain constant when comparing gear sets. The higher numerically you go the more line you can retrieve with each turn of the handle but the weaker the gear set becomes. It does not mater if you are trying to crank in a big cat or just hanging on while he is pulling drag. Either way the gears are rotating and under strain.

• The Omoto's only option is a 5.5:1 ratio, for an old school reel that seems a bit high to me. Abu's standard ratio is 4.1:1, with 5.3:1 available in the narrow spool iHSN Big Game and CT Mag. As rule I prefer the lower 4.1:1 ratio but in the narrow spool iHSN Big Game I liked the 5.3:1 gears. Since the 5.3:1 gears are larger and thicker the the 6500 gears, they should be quite reliable.

• 4.1:1 ratio 22” of line per turn.

• 5.3:1 ratio 28” of line per turn.

• 5.5:1 ratio 29” of line per turn (aprox)

Anti-Reverse

• The Omoto CSM has an IAR bearing along with a backup anti-reverse dog.

• The old Abu 7000C3 uses a anti-reverse dog. Very solid and time proven but lacks the instant stop of the newer reels.

• The 7500iC3 and 7000iHSN have a larger anti-reverse bearing than the Omoto, plus a backup anti-reverse dog. It is a stronger anti-reverse system the the Omoto or the older Abu.

Clickers

• The Abu 7000C3 and Omoto have the same clickers with Omoto using a different spring. They will wake up most people, the Omoto's was a little louder. The clicker arm hits the nylon axle gear.

• The Abu 7000iC3 and 7000iHSN have a clicker similar to a Alphamar and Fathom. The clicker arm hits against a metal gear on the axle. They are louder and stronger than the other two clickers.

• • Line capacity

• • • Abu 7000C3 - 270 yds of 20 lb mono
  • • Omoto 7000 CSM - 270 yds of 20 lb mono
  • • Abu 7000i C3 - 270 yds of 20 lb mono
  • • Abu 7000iH SN – 220 yds of 17 lb mono......................260 yds of 50 lb braid

Casting

• • • To keep every thing fair all the bearings and worm gears were cleaned and re-lubed with Abu Silicate oil. I had to clean oil off the brake weights of the Omoto and on both the Abu's 7000i's, I had to clean grease off the brake weights. I used Stren original 20Lb mono with 30 feet of 40 lb top shot on all the reels except the 7500iC3 it was already spooled with 65 lb Suffix 832. All the casting was done with a 7'6” MH Nite Stick Pro, throwing 3 and 5 oz bank sinkers.
  • • The Omoto CSM and Abu 7000iC3 use the same brake weight set up. The difference being Abu uses fiber weights and Omoto uses plastic weights. Take care adjusting, because once the side plate comes off, the weights can fall off the spool.
  • • The two 7000i reels use four plastic weights that can be turned on or off with out fear of loosing them. To cast pull the lever back to disengage the gears. To engage the gears you can push the lever forward or just turn the handle.
  • • Plus or minus there was no real world difference in casting distance between them when using 5 oz weights. With 3 oz the 7000iHSH had a 20 ft advantage. It was easier to lobe a 1 oz weight with the little 7000iHSN than with the larger reels. That was not really a surprise since smaller reels always cast lighter weights better than larger reels. All these reels were very controllable to cast. Final casting adjustment on all reels was 2 brake weights and no friction from the cast control knob. In the Omoto's case the magnets were also turned off. On the 7500iC3 and 7000iHSN I could still turn off one more brake weight with out loosing control of the spool.

Conclusion

• • • I felt the Omoto's anti-reverse was a bit under engineered for a 7000 size reel, with the 22 lbs.of drag advertised. When the Omoto's worm gear was replaced a rough spot remained when pulling drag. Since this reel was in to have Abu 4.1:1 gears put in it, I went ahead and did that and retested the drag. This time it pulled 18 lbs and was smooth and consistent with the added benefit of Abu's alarm when drag is being pulled. The gears may have suffered some damage when the anti-reverse bearing slipped. I have found problems with Omoto's internal fit and finish before. Parts like the worm gear don't have the same polish as their Abu counter parts. Omoto may have borrowed the design of their competition and lowed the cost. What they have not done is maintain quality and as a result it is a good serviceable reel but not a great reel.
  • • Since the 7000C3 is no longer made I won't say a lot about it. It was and is a great reel that just lacked a couple up grades that the newer reels have. (instant-anti-reverse & carbon fiber drag) Inspite of what it lacked it is still a more refined reel than the Omoto. The addition of a carbon fiber drag made a huge improvement in this reel.
  • • I hear people bashing the 7000I C3 because it is made in China. Get over it. As far as I can see it is every bit as well built as the Swedish models. The only extra plastic or nylon are the two clutch gears. These gears are not a stressed component and should hold up well, so there is no need for more expensive brass gearing here. Replacement cost for them is only $2.58 and $2.83. My only complaint is Abu puts grease on the centrifugal brakes on every sample I have seen. The fix is to remove the handle side and clean the centrifugal brakes with hot soap and water. Then wipe the brake drum with a rag and and some brake cleaner after that put a drop of oil on the shaft where it rides on the pinion gear. The 7000i's are an all new reel with an entirely different feel than the old 7000C3's and Omoto. The 7000i C3 has a large anti-reverse bearing and a side mounted free spool lever and as a result it feels a bit heavy on the handle side when mounted on a rod. That same anti-reverse also makes the 7000iC3, stronger than the Omoto CSM and the Abu 7000C3.
  • • The 7000iHSN is a narrow spool version of the 7000i and has a line capacity closer to a 6500 size reel. In all other respects it identical to the 7000iC3 with a more balanced feel. So if you are someone who abuses 6500's then this might be a reel to consider. The strength of a 7000 in a 6500 size reel. Weighing in at 8.7 oz. more than a 6500C3, it's like a 6500 on steroids. It can pair up well with a 15/30 Ugly White Cat or a Cat Fight rod.

A quick note on the Ming Yang.

• • I also had a Ming Yang here and you will notice, I did not waste a lot of time on the Ming Yang.
• • The Ming Yang is a 7000 size reel with a 6000 size drive shaft. It's internals are stamped out of what appears to be a soft metal. The power handle is so heavy it would engage the spool on a moderate cast. On the drag test the lower metal drag washer stripped at 15 lbs and damaged the drive shaft. Putting the reel out of commission for any further testing. For your money you can do better, enough said about this reel.
• I'll let you draw your own conclusions about these reels. For myself the 7000iHSN is a favorite.

Absorbing Shock and It's Place In Catfishing by Brittan Battles

In a perfect world, we would land every fish we hook...right? But that doesn't happen, no matter what. We lose fish. Due to a hook being shaken, bad hook placement, line breakage, whatever the cause..it happens. However there are plenty of things we can do to keep this to a minimum. For one, don't allow the line to slacken whatsoever. Any slack in the line after a fish is hooked can cause the hook to pop free. If the right components are used in a tackle system, an angler can have confidence that every fish he/she hooks, will soon be laying on the bank or in the bottom of a boat.
A recent conversation with our own Charles Luck brought something to mind that I have never thoroughly thought about. Adding resistance to a fish through setting the hook, reeling or pumping (an up and down rod motion that some people use to fight catfish) can put a massive amount of strain on the reel, rod, line, any terminal tackle components and the point of where the fish is hooked. If none of these components absorbed a great deal of shock, we couldn't possibly keep consistent pressure on a fish from hook set to landing of the fish. The fish's movements are too sporadic and unpredictable. Our tackle HAS to be able to apply steady pressure, while absorbing the shock of the sporadic and sometimes overwhelming movements that fish make while fighting them. I won't speak too much for Chuck. He is a big advocate for using stouter rods, but he also uses monofilament line along with a mono leader. The mono being the major shock absorbing component in his set-up beacause mono has some strech, some brands more than others but never the less. On the other hand, I would rather spool my reel with braided line and use a rod with a slower action or refered to as having a softer tip. The rod being my main component in absorbing shock. Click here for more information on the rods that I like to use. Although Chuck and myself may agree to disagree on the topic of gear selection, both tackle systems essentially do the same thing, right? Both have extreme shock absorbing components and both allow us to control fish from the hook being buried, to the successful netting of a fish!
Any thoughts? What are some of your opinions? Am I wrong? You be the judge. Thanks for reading!
-Brittan

Fishing Reel Maintenance Routine

The purpose of this post is to give you some common sense advice on keeping your reels in optimal condition.  Fishing is inherently destructive to reels.  Between the water, sand, dirt and grime it takes a toll on your reel.  Many of the reels made today are wonders of modern technology!  14 bearings and smooth as silk.  Tolerances have improved and materials have evolved.  However, in order to keep those wonders of modern technology working optimally, you have to invest some time before and after your trips maintaining them.  Given that you after Monster Catfish, your reels need to perform optimally and reliably to give you the best chance of landing the beast of a lifetime.
First I would like to thank Mr. Luck for giving me the opportunity to contribute to his website for the benefit of all fisherman.  If you are reading this you share a passion for fishing in one form or another.    Whether you are targeting Strippers on the east coast, Snook in the bays of Florida, salmon on the west coast or monster catfish we all have something in common.  We fish with a reel, line and pole.  That being said, we are always looking for a little edge, a better technique or better gear.  I was taught by my grandfather to keep things simple and to properly maintain your equipment for optimal results on the water.  He never used any high end gear and yet he was prolific producer of fish.  What he did teach me was the importance of proper maintenance on the gear you had available.
Reel manufactures bank on the fact that most anglers do not maintain their gear.  Use it till it fails and buy a new one.  But, if you develop some basic routines, you can preserve your gear and use it for many years to come.  I have always been one who buys quality equipment and invests to maintain it.  In that way, you end up investing less money overall and you are assured of optimal gear when you need it most.  So here are some recommended best practices on reel maintenance that will protect your investments.

1.  If you buy a new reel have it serviced before putting it into service.  Yes, you read that right.  Here is why.  Manufactures assume you will use it until it fails and then buy another one.  They apply grease in a fashion that fits that strategy.  Too much is applied in certain areas that will impact performance and not enough in areas that will impact longevity.  By having your reel serviced out of the box, it will perform better and last longer, thus reduce the overall cost of using the product.
2. Strange sounds coming from your reel is never a good thing.  High pitched whine while casting is an indication of spool bearings needing oil or replacement if corrosion has set in.  Strange sounds mean a problem that will not just go away.  It does mean that if you continue using it, you will create a bigger more expensive solution.
3. Feel of your reel while in use.  Any binding, clunking, sticky feel, slipping drag, uneven drag, vibrations all indicate a problem.  Further use will only exacerbate the problem.  Take your reel out of service and perform routine maintenance.  Drags should be smooth at all levels of adjustment.  Greased drags will minimize initial startup force and provide a smooth range.  Greased drags are also a preventative measure to fight corrosion.
4. Never dunk your reel in the river or lake thinking this will improve performance.  This just introduces more contaminating objects into areas of the reel ensuring failures in the future.  Just carry a back up reel its cheaper in the long run.
5. If you drop your reel in the sand or lay it on the bank in the dirt, or just throw it in the back of the truck after use, the reel will require more maintenance as dirt, sand and road grime will find its way into your reel impacting performance and reliability.  This is especially true for modern reels with very tight tolerances.  The older Penn reels are famous for their reliability under all conditions as their tolerances are not as tight.
6. Never use WD-40 sprayed directly on your reel.  WD-40 is lacquer based and will collect and solidify inside your reel impacting performance and acting as a magnet for foreign materials.  WD-40 has a place in your maintenance routine but not in this manner.
7. Post fishing routine for you reels.  Simply spray the reel and rod with fresh water at home.  You don't need to blast it, just a quick spray down.  Let the reel dry completely.  Spray your WD-40 on a soft cloth and rub down the exterior of the reel.  WD-40 is a good water dispersant and it works well as an oil and grease remover.  Store in a cool dry area free from dust and other contaminates.  The reel bag that came with your reel is perfect.  I leave the reels on the rods and just cover the reels with the bags.
8. I see many reels come in that have been over loved.  Meaning, guys just think that more grease and oil is better.  It is not.  Feeding your dog is not loving your dog.  Over feeding the dog is slowly killing it.  Same for reels.  Over oiling and greasing your reel impacts performance and makes for a nightmare of a clean up.  (1) Drop of oil on each spool bearing regularly is plenty.  Any more than that is just waste as it will be thrown from the bearing into the reel to collect more dirt and grime.  Level winds need a drop on each end and (1) drop on the pawl.  Since the level wind is so exposed to the elements it needs constant attention to maintain great cast-ability.
9. Annual maintenance routines.  Clearly, this depends on many factors not the least of which is how often the reel has been used, how it has been maintained and the amount of time on the drags.  I have seen it all in my shop.  Reels that look unused on the outside, and completely corroded in on the inside.  Reels that are so seized up the spool won't spin at all.  Level wind mechanisms that have to be completely replaced from lack of oil and corrosion build up.
10. If your reel is not casting the distance it once did, two areas of the reel need attention.  Level wind mechanics have always hindered casting distance.  In the newer reels there are bearings on each end of the level wind gear to minimize drag.  So make sure you clean and oil them regularly.  The other area is spool bearings.

Thank you again for the opportunity to share some experience and good luck in your "Quest for Monster Catfish"
Andy Smith, on the web at supertunereels.com, on Twitter @supertunereels and Facebook at supertunereels.com

Introduction - Brittan Battles

For many of us fishing for trophy catfish isn't only just a hobby. It a passion and can honestly, mold a way of life if you let it. It teaches one to be patient, resilient and always observing. All three of these qualities are key concepts to having any success when chasing these giants. These qualities also translate into everyday life and are great things to possess when looking for success outside of catfishing. My name is Brittan Battles and I am completely obsessed with chasing huge Flathead, Blue and Channel catfish.

 I grew up on a farm and in a small community in rural northwest Ohio. I fished as a kid, maybe not as much as some, but I enjoyed fishing for bass, bluegill and crappie in small local ponds and lakes. I wasn't introduced to the world of catfishing until late May of 2007 by my future (now) father-in-law. I started off spending every weekend at local reservoirs and stocked ponds owned by the many fish and game clubs in the area, just for the first few years. Now residing in the northeastern part of Ohio and I spend most of my time traveling to the best fisheries in the state for whatever species I am targeting, usually Flatheads.

Enough about me, I would like to mention a few of the things that I have implemented that have been keys to my success. When looking for trophy fish, don't be afraid to travel to the best fisheries in the area. It can make a huge difference in setting a personal best every season or going home with no action trip after trip. On average I drive about 70 miles each way to the body of water that I want to fish on that given trip, be a river or a lake. Modern day catfisherman have an edge,and its called the internet. Read, network with other fisherman and plan for success. Through the internet and networking I have met many other catfisherman that strive for success just as I do. Why waste your time? You can actively fish for these beasts. Too many guys just toss out baits in a convenient spot for them or a spot that has produced in the past and expect results every trip. That's not how it works. More on that in the future.

Until next time guys! I am excited to be a part of The Quest For Monster Catfish and I look forward to hearing from some of you. Tight Lines!

Spring Transition Flatheads

Intercepting Spring Transition Flatheads

            With any form of flathead fishing, success depends on piecing together parts of the puzzle that is a successful pattern.  Considering all of the variables that play into fish location and movement, it can seem like a daunting task.  This is accentuated even more in large reservoirs, where fish can travel through a wide open expanse of water from one destination to the next.  Flathead fishing success in  reservoirs relies in large part on defining exactly what pieces of the puzzle are important when, and how to put the most pieces together at any given time to give yourself a shot at success.  In this post I’d like to take a look at the transition period from late winter to spring, and go over some of the variables or “puzzle pieces” that have proven successful in large reservoirs across the U.S.

            It is widely known that flathead catfish become relatively dormant when water temperatures fall below a certain level.  In the Midwest, most anglers experience greatly diminished success when surface temperatures drop below 45 degrees.  Up until this point, the more successful anglers have been locating feeding fish en-route to water in which they can spend the winter.  Once in a wintering area, flatheads seem to feed (with increasingly sluggish behavior) in that area until a point when they finally turn it off for the winter. Winter flathead fishing is possible, and in some circumstances (under the right conditions) I believe flatheads will take a bait.  More popular this time of year, though, is a controversial method of jigging large soft baits on heavy lead directly over suspected wintering holes. In order to avoid an ethical debate here, we will fast forward to  early spring.

            So, what’s the earliest you’ve landed a flathead during the spring? Better yet, what’s the earliest you’ve had success while actually targeting the species?  The general consensus across the board is that most flathead anglers in the Midwest begin to dust off their gear in late April and begin experiencing consistent success into May (subtract a month further into the south, give or take). But we’ve all seen it. Every year several flathead pictures make their way around the internet of large fish caught long before anyone’s thinking about fishing for them, by someone fishing for another species.  This is certainly no coincidence.

Piece #1: Timing

            The reservoir flathead has to be considered differently than flatheads in rivers.  They are normally not governed by current, and relate much more to certain solitary “home” areas than do river fish.  This also means that if a large flathead doesn't like something about a particular day (whether its temperature, barometric pressure, water influx, etc.) he can sit still on his happy butt and wait to move until conditions are more to his liking.  This brings us to the first spring time puzzle piece: Timing.  Over the years we’ve noticed that a flathead really can show up at any time, but good days (the days producing more than one fish) seem to be good days across the board.  With several large lakes in my home state exhibiting fishable flathead populations, we can compare reports across the state and take note of trends.  What we’ve come to realize is that a good portion of the time, if we have a good multiple fish trip, it’s not the only one in the area and normally one of several.  But what triggered this onslaught of feeding behavior?  Let’s think.  Early in the season, most anglers flock to their favorite lake or reservoir on the warmest, sunny days.  Spring warm up begins to lift water temperatures, and fish like saugeye, crappie, and largemouth bass begin to leave deep water in search of warmer habitat.  It comes as no surprise then that most early season, accidental flathead catches seem to occur on warm, sunny days.  Usually at the peak of the warmest part of the day, too.  Early in the season, this warm sunny weather is a flathead's alarm clock. Just like in the fall, they will feed sluggishly and probably not go far. But you better believe they’re hungry.  A mistake many anglers make is the belief that flathead are solely nocturnal predators.  During most of the season, this is the case.  We have outlined, however, that flathead catfish activity is largely governed by water temperature.  Anglers itching to target flathead in early spring would be wise to note warming trends, and to pick warm days that come after a string of other warm sunny days.  Fish in unfavorable conditions this early in the season and 9 times out of 10 you will find you’re just out for a boat ride.

Piece #2: Bait

Coming off of a fall bite where no piece of bait seemed too big for a hungry flathead to eat, many anglers make the mistake of offering these same baits to fish early in the year. When it comes down to it, flatheads are opportunistic and may take any bait like this presented in the right place.  What one must also keep in mind, though, is that flatheads are top predators and will weigh the energy cost of catching and consuming a bait against the nutritional gain they take from eating it.  When flathead are slow and sluggish, fighting a metabolism that’s been at a creeping pace all winter, they may be more likely to pass up a big, lively bait that could present a challenge to catch and kill.  Instead, try offering smaller live baits and even pieces of cut bait in areas where flatheads will likely be trying to shake off the dust and find an easy meal.  Cut shad can be deadly then, as winter kill settles to the bottom before it begins to bloat and float with the wind to shallow bays (the channel cat café).  Don’t be afraid to mix one or two large baits into your set, as it could pay off big time. Just keep in mind that on average, smaller baits or fresh cut bait are easier to catch and kill to a flathead moving in slow motion.  Remember the guy holding a 40lb bruiser with a saugeye jig stuck in its mouth, or the crappie fisherman who got spooled using minnows.

Piece #3: Location

So you’ve had several warm days in a row, and the forecast is calling for sunny skies and an afternoon temperature in the low 60’s.  Seems like as good a chance as any for an early spring fish.  Location is the next piece of the puzzle to put in place.  Flatheads will start to “wake up” with a string of warm weather and favorable pressure like this, but may not begin to migrate to traditional late spring water until this weather becomes more of a normal thing.  In the mean time, they’ll shake off the cobwebs and begin milling around near winter water.  The key here is to find transition points that offer a good chance at contacting fish waking up from their slumber.  In early spring, bays at the northern ends of large reservoirs typically warm first.  So run to the warmest bay you can find and give it hell? Not yet.  Fish like largemouth bass and crappie that have maintained an active metabolism all winter will begin to chase the warmest water very early on.  Flatheads seem to take their time.  Take a look at a good topographical map and locate what looks like a likely wintering area for flathead catfish in that lake.  Then, look for shallow water within reasonable distance to this wintering water that is likely to warm up first.  Typically bays or fingers of the lake that receive windblown water from the south and have creeks flowing into them will thaw and warm the fastest. Now, take a look at the path from point A (your winter area) to point B (your warm spring bay).  What is the most likely path of travel between these areas that a flathead may take as the water begins to warm?  In many cases, this may be a drop-off edge or creek channel.  Now look more closely.  What details of this structural feature make good areas for flatheads to lazily browse for food as their metabolism starts to ramp back up? A channel bend holding wood or other habitat? The confluence of another channel coming out of a bay to the main channel?  Stick close to likely winter water very early in the year, but begin to follow the path from point A to point B as the warming trend continues.  If you’re contacting fish then suddenly lose contact with them for several straight trips, move on down the line to the next interesting feature in their path. Find active fish on the right days and follow them as they begin to branch out further and further from winter water, and I bet they eventually lead you to prime time, late spring water. You’ll follow them to these areas right about the same time of year that everyone else is just dusting off their gear and thinking about giving it a shot.

During the wait for spring, now is a good time to clean and repair gear, sharpen hooks, stock up on the necessities, and get to studying those maps. Or in my case (or nutcase, if you will), wade around hip deep in the frozen steelhead rivers of the Great Lakes and look jealously at pictures of enormous cold water blue cats.

Until next time, tight lines guys.