Sunday, December 31, 2017

Okuma Metaloid M-5S Product Review by Joe Shaw

For the majority of my catfishing career, I have relied heavily on star drag reels of various makes and sizes to get the job done.  My preferences have evolved from the early beginnings of Abu Garcia 6500's and whatever else I could get my hands on to larger, more powerful reels like the Penn Squall 20's and Shimano Tekota 600's.  Though I'd read about the merits of lever drag reels, I'd never taken the plunge to try one out. Until now, that is.  I'd like to introduce the new for 2014 Okuma Metaloid series of reels, focusing on the model M-5S for this particular review. mreview4
As seen in this first picture, the Metaloid M-5S is a small framed reel. Don't let the first glance fool you, though. This reel is roughly the width of an Abu 6500 size reel, but holds an impressive 340 yards of 20 pound test monofilament line. This little powerhouse weighs in at 15.6 ounces, and has the feel of a very solid, well made machine. Making a maximum of 24 pounds of drag pressure (15 pounds in strike/freespool), it will test the bend in any of the catfish rods readily available today.  This non-levelwind reel  also recovers 42.1" of line per handle revolution (assuming the spool is full). Now, on to the components.
SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES
The Okuma Metaloid M-5S consists of a 1 piece frame and solid left side plate machined from 6061-T6 aluminum.  The spool itself is cold forged, type-II anodized, machined aluminum.  This reel is also treated with Okuma's CRC (Corrosion Resistant Coating) process to ensure that it stands up to the rigors of both fresh and salt water applications.  The M-5S contains 4 corrosion resistant stainless steel ball bearings, and 17-4 grade stainless steel helical cut gears. Rounded off by a carbonite, greased lever drag system (greased with Cal's drag grease), Ergo grip handle, on/off bait clicker with silent retrieve, and a 3 year warranty, this little dude packs a punch.  I mentioned earlier in this article that there are separate max drag settings for full and strike settings.  As with many lever drag reels, the operator can set the desired amount of max drag for a hookset prior to fighting a fish by use of a stopper button along the lever rail. Sliding the lever all the way to this stopper button will put the drag into its "strike" setting, which is adjusted by rotating the knob at the base of the drag lever.  The maximum "strike" drag pressure available is 15 pounds, but if more drag pressure is needed, the operator can depress the stopper button and further engage the lever drag (up to 24 pounds of drag pressure).  I've found this stopper button to be very useful, as it makes switching from freespool (running the clicker) to "strike" as simple as manually closing the bail on a star drag reel like the Penn Sqall, Fathom, etc.  The clicker on this reel is fairly light and quiet when engaged in absolute freespool, but tension can be added to the clicker by lightly engaging the drag lever. With very lively bait or moderate current, I normally fish the clicker on with the drag lever engaged 2-3 clicks above absolute free. The clicker knob is a bit stiff, but ergonomic and seated well into the side plate. In my opinion, it would be nearly impossible to accidentally engage this clicker while casting or fighting a fish.
SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES
SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES
Now, on to the fun part...Application.
mreview5
As many of you know, much of my fishing is done on several large, Ohio reservoirs for flathead catfish.  Though these fish are large and brutish when hooked, fishing for them in a still system like a reservoir can require of degree of delicate finesse.  Flathead will often completely inhale a bait and move off with it steadily. Which direction they move, though, isn't always consistent.  In a river, tension placed on the line by a running fish will normally engage the bait clicker regardless of where the fish is moving due to current. In a lake, fish will sometimes inhale a bait and swim directly towards us.  I've found the light clicker on this reel sensitive enough to pick up the initial inhalation of a bait, and the 40+ inches of line recover per handle revolution handy in catching up with a fish that's consumed a bait and come back under the boat. With very lively baits, I normally run the clicker with the drag engaged 2 or 3 clicks. This provides enough tension to keep a wild bullhead or carp under control, but will not turn a flathead away from easily taking line.  Our rigging with these live baits varies quite a bit, but I've had absolutely no trouble casting any of them with this reel. In absolute free, the spool on this thing spins like a top. I normally cast in this setting, but I recommend doing so with care your first few times out with the reel.  Now that I'm used to this extreme free spool, I can readily outcast most of my other reels with the Metaloid.
mreview3
Each year we take a trip or two to fish for blue catfish on the mighty James River.  Fishing this river requires varying your technique between locked down, rod loading strikes in heavy current to fishing still barge pits in freespool with clickers engaged.  The Metaloid was more than up to either task.  I fished the reel in heavy flow with the drag set to the "strike" setting, and fish were able to bury the rod and engage the large circle hooks used here fully.  Back in the pits, running lighter weights and detecting light strikes was no problem either.  The reel heaved both presentations well, from 12 ounces of lead and a whole 12" shad, to small shad fillets and 2 ounce weights.  Fighting fish was no problem either, as I never had to increase the drag beyond its max strike setting. I will note, though, that the greased drag system means drastic tension reduction when the drag is lessened under load.  I wasn't prepared for this, and reduced the drag too much while fighting the first fish. The resulting slack line was a bit of a panic, but the fish was landed. All part of familiarizing yourself with your new gear.
mreview2

In conclusion, the Okuma Metaloid M-5S has quickly become an integral part of my catfishing arsenal.  I prefer this single speed model for its simplicity, and have not been left wanting for a lower gearing in any of my fishing excursions yet. For those who would like the option to drop into a more powerful gear setting, 2-speed models are available. I've found the 5 size to adequately meet my line capacity needs, but the larger 12 size is available for those wanting more.  This reel is compact, powerful, and performs smoothly under any load I've put it against.  I'd recommend one for any of the applications described above, and many more.  The Okuma Metaloid is available at a growing number of Okuma dealers, with a suggested MSRP of $189.99-$259.99 depending on model.
Thanks for reading and until next time, follow the Quest...
mreview1

Okuma EVx Musky EVx-C-741H by Chuck


1-DSCF0116
Have you been searching for the ultimate monster catfish rod?
I know I sure have. It's been a 20 year journey for me. I've tried so many, I don't even remember them all. St. Croix Classic Cat, E-Cat, Big Cat, Ugly Tiger, Takedown, the list just goes on and on. Most of them were adequate or better, but none of them the ONE.
Well, that has all changed now, kind of.
The Okuma EVx Musky 7' 4" Heavy casting model is as close as I have ever gotten to the perfect monster catfish rod.
The Evx Musky models are built on an IM-8 graphite blank using Fuji premium graphite reel seats, Alps stainless guides with Zirconium inserts (the inserts are exposed), Alps welded Tungsten Carbide tip, and cork grips. The total weight of this rod is a feather light 10.4 ounces. Price $109.99.
While the components used on these rods are certainly top notch, and exactly what is needed by musky anglers casting heavy lures all day, I do prefer a slightly different (and more expensive) set of components. I would prefer the Alps XN deep press guides used on the more expensive Okuma rods, as well as their Alps aluminum reel seats. If you have read my other rod reviews, you know I don't like cork grips. I would prefer any other material for my grips. The shrink tube grips used on the Okuma Makaira rod series are my favorite.
But for a musky rod, these components are perfectly fine, and preferred by someone casting all day.
It's the blank used in this Heavy action rod, rated 30-80#, and 2-10 oz. that's the star here. If I could get several of these blanks and have them wrapped with my preferred components listed above, these would be my ultimate monster catfish rods without a doubt.
1-DSCF0100
Catfishermen like to talk about how much backbone different rods have. Well let me tell you, if you think your rods have good backbone, you really don't know what that is, until you try one of these. The EVx Musky 30-80 while light as a feather, has a backbone that just won't quit. If your average catfish rod has a normal human backbone, this rod would be like having a titanium backbone.
The top 2-3' of this rod has a beautiful bend under heavy pressure, and in the mid section it just shuts down. No bending back to the front grip here. This is the very definition of stout. What does this titanium backbone do for you? It makes fighting average sized fish just a little too easy. While I didn't catch any true monster on these rods, I did catch some flatheads approaching 40#'s, and the EVx Musky made it no contest. At any time I could do whatever I wanted with the fish. Flathead heads for cover, nope, stop him on a dime. Flathead tries to dig the bottom, nope, you're coming up buster. Flathead tries to run around the anchor rope or motor, no way. All of these happened to me while fighting big flatheads using the EVx, and none of the fish were successful.
The backbone of this rod also makes for an brutal hook set. You will definitely want to watch the force you use when setting the hook in shallow water, unless you want to pull 20# fish out of the water without a fight. This rod is the opposite of a feel the fight type rod, with their mushy feel, and floppy tip, and backbone that bends back to the front grip.
Here is the only pic I was able to get of this rod in action, as all of our flatheads this year came in the dark. This pic is late in the fight with a 17# channel cat. This fish tired fast, but tried to make one last dive for the bottom, right at the boat when this pic was snapped. You can see the bend of the rod pretty well, although earlier in the fight it was bent a little further down the blank.
10536939_801176256593754_6935163328553349616_n
Now for casting. As this is a musky rod, it was built with casting in mind. It did seem to prefer a heavy weight when used with 50# mono. To put a good bend in it for a cast, 3 ounces really isn't going to do it. 5 ounces plus bait is when it starts to come in to it's own. I used this rod with 18 ounces plus bait on the Wabash River this fall, and it handled it just fine, and casted very well. In short, this rod casts just fine for what I need, and handles more weight than I normally use.
So what we have here is what I consider to be the best monster catfish rod I have ever used, without a doubt. While I wouldn't change a single thing about the blank, I would change the other components for catfishing duty, and the grips for personal preference. If you can't move a big fish with this rod, it simply can't be moved.
For right now, as of November 2014, the Okuma EVx-C-741 gets my highest recommendation for a monster catfish rod. 2 of these will be in my boat on every single trip in 2015. I am in the process of testing a few other rods, but these will be with me for sure. Finally a monster catfish rod with the perfect bend.
Chuck.
chucktatmod

7/0 Owner K hooks by Chuck

DSCF0213
The 7/0 Owner K hook was the primary hook I used in 2014. While talking with a friend about hooks about a year ago, he mentioned Owner hooks. He asked if I ever used them. I told him I had, but quit using them years ago because of cost. Once I found the Eagle Claw King Kahle hooks, I made the switch and have used them ever since as my primary hook. After the conversation with my friend I went to the Owner site and began looking through their hooks. I found the K hooks and thought they would be a good hook to get in for review.
Similar to the Eagle Claw King Kahle but with a slightly different bend, the K hook is a great choice when a wide gap hook is needed. Here is a shot of the 7/0 K hook next to a couple of the Eagle Claw King Kahle hooks.
DSCF0210
7/0 Owner K on the left next to the 7/0 King Kahle. 4 or 5/0 on the right.

Over the course of 2014 the Owner K hook has become my favorite hook for flathead fishing. These hooks are extremely sharp out of the package. They will instantly penetrate anything they come in contact with, including your finger. Don't ask me how I know this. However, just as with anything else the extreme sharpness comes at a cost. If the K hook comes in contact with anything solid, it dulls rather quickly. Even slightly dull though, it's sharper than many hooks out of the box. Just keep an eye on them when fishing around cover, or after hooking a big fish. Contact with the jaw bone of a big flathead and it may be time to tie on a new hook.
Owner hooks have always been on the higher end of the cost scale for hooks, and the K hooks is no exception. A 12 pack of the 7/0 hooks is $12 if purchased directly from Owner. At a buck a piece this certainly puts them in the premium price category. The Eagle Claw King Kahle in 7/0 can be had for $6.60 for a box of 50 from Bottom Dwellers Tackle. That's 13 cents a piece. The price of the K hooks is certainly inline with other premium priced catfish hooks though. The Charlie Brown hooks are around a buck a piece, and the Team Catfish Double Action hooks are about 75 cents a piece, after the reduction in price on these. When I was buying them, they were about a buck a piece.
Are the Owner K hooks worth the substantial difference in cost? I can't really answer that. All I can say is they worked great for me in 2014. I did have to throw away a few hooks, but not that many. Fishing suspended over cover in deep holes most of the year, my K hooks didn't come in contact with much to dull them. When I did fish on bottom, I would generally tie on a King Kahle.
The 7/0 Owner K hooks worked great no matter the bait used. Whether it was a snout hooked 10" sucker, or a piece of cut bait. A hookset resulted in a flathead in the boat. No quick releases this year when the Owner K hook was on the line.

10492476_774717782572935_7473936756975518659_n
So if you are looking for a premium catfish hook, maybe money is on the line in a big tournament, give the Owner K hooks a try. Just keep a close eye on that point. As for me, I plan to keep a few packs of the K hooks in my box, but don't plan on spending hundreds of dollars on them. When contact with cover is possible, the trusty Eagle Claw King Kahle will be on the end of my line.
DSCF0209

Chuck
chucktatmod

True Grit by Scott Ross

As I sit by the river bank or on the boat. Or walking around scouting out new areas. I wonder WHY? Why can't I find a Flathead here? Why do I hear them rolling and fighting all around me? What am I doing wrong? Well, chances are, nothing. Many anglers in a quest for Monsters go through a dry spell. But during that time you can't help but to question everything you do. You question your gear, your bait, your Knowledge, and before long you start to wonder why your even there at all.
If you target one specific body of water, it can become even rougher. As I did. I chose a body of water in north central Ohio that has been known to be home to some truly giant Flatheads. I spent two years trying to find some here. I caught many large channels. And run after run, then pulling up another channel. I grew more obsessed, and more concerned. As I began to question everything I knew, I decided to test out my practices. Every time I would wonder, I would just take a trip to where they were plentiful and give it a shot. And would usually turn out good.
During this struggle I knew most of my friends wouldn't have the same determination that I did. They couldn't. Nobody close new what I was going through. And I didn't expect them to. I spent many nights alone on the water. Just staring into the darkness. Nothing to do but sit there and stew in your own thoughts. Many of those nights were noisy from the many fish jumping all around and bugs singing. Other nights were eary and hollow, Not a single noise around. It was hard to tell which was worse, Knowing the fish were there but wouldn't bite. Or wondering if there was even anything around at all.
It was one these warm dark nights of silence that breathed a sigh of relief. A nibble on the line. As I reeled in a heavy fish, It put up a good fight. But that feeling I felt before, every time a channel would surface, started to set in. My mind started to think, It's just another channel. But as his face broke the surface a feeling like no other set over me. A relief mixed with excitement and satisfaction all mixed together.
After It was all over I sit back and remember the struggles. The fish was no monster. In fact it was just over 22 pounds. But what that fish meant, and what I went through was all combined to make it larger than life. When I look back and wonder if it was all worth it. YES. Would I change a thing? You bet your hiney. Do I really want it to change? Nah.
22-10 charles mill

Cortland Master Braid Review by Chuck

Cortland Line Company of Cortland New York has been in the line business for nearly 100 years. Only in recent years have they been producing braided line under their own name. Prior to that they made braided line for some of the biggest names in the saltwater line game. Cortland is one of the only 3 companies with the capability to actually braid spectra into line. All of their line is made in house in their New York facility, a true American manufacturer.
DSCF0033
Master Braid is Cortland's solid braid which features FiberTech. A proprietary penetrating treatment which is used to permanently protect the line and enhance it's handling properties. This technology also permanently bonds with the fibers to seal in the color of the braid. No flaking, or fading, etc. FiberTech also gives Master Braid truly world class abrasion resistance.
After reading about the line in a few places, I contacted Brooks Robinson at Cortland to see about getting some line in for review. Brooks was very helpful, answering all my questions and was eager to get some line out to me to put it through it's paces in the harsh environments of that we encounter on our quest for monster catfish.
I spooled up the 50# Yellow Master braid on 2 of my reels. I chose 50# as the ultimate test for the lines abrasion resistance. Any nicks in the line should cause a quick release of any big flathead I hooked up to while pushing my drag up around 20 pounds.
After about a month and a half of fishing this line, I can say I have had ZERO problems. I have checked the line closely before every trip. Looking for any hint of damage. I have purposely sent casts into snags and over chunk rock with absolutely NO damage, simply incredible!
The old saying about not using braid in cover and especially around rocks, that simply doesn't apply with Cortland Master Braid. FiberTech is the real deal folks, not just some b.s. put out by a company to make their line seem better.
LEE_2718
I was concerned after reading for years about knots in braid not holding as well as in mono. That to doesn't apply with Cortland Master Braid. I have been using the palomar with this line with ZERO slippage or knot defects of any kind. Even under high drag pressure with some big flatheads on. The line has simply performed with 100% reliability in every test I have put it through no matter the conditions.
I have also heard of lighter braid breaking on hard hooksets on heavy fish. I can tell you that didn't happen with the Master Braid. A few weeks ago I set the hook into a beast of a fish, big enough that when I set the hook the rod just stopped coming up when the line pulled completely tight. I was able to lift the rod slightly after that, but not enough to get a good bend in it. The Cortland held it's ground. But after a short fight, my leader gave up the ghost. What was my leader material? 50# Ande Monster Yellow. This was a fresh leader I had just tied a few hours before, that hadn't had any fish on it yet, but had been in some wood. I broke my own rule about obsessively checking my leaders, and it cost me a monster flathead. I'm pretty sure if I were using the Master Braid as a leader, I would have boated that fish.
I still have full confidence in Ande Monster Yellow. It will still be a part of my rigs, but I need to make sure I check it any time I come in contact with some nasty structure. Using 20 pounds of drag any defect in the line and a big fish will exploit it.
After that mishap I began to consider other leader options. I have some 100 pound Ande Monster Yellow, or would some 150 pound Cortland Master Braid do the trick. But really, checking my leader like I normally do would have eliminated the failure. I may still give some 150 pound Master Braid a try as a leader to see how it performs.
I'm positive it will perform just as well as the 50 pound line has. The Cortland Master Braid has put several nice flatheads in the boat so far, and it will stay on my reels until it's time to replace it with new Cortland Master Braid. I am now planning on putting it on most of my other reels. I see no reason to not use the best product I can find, especially when it's a line product. Our link between us and the fish.
So there you have it. The new top dog in line for my quest for monster catfish. The best abrasion resistance of any line I have ever used, incredible knot strength with no slippage, permanently bonded color, and amazing impact resistance. What more can we ask for from a line?
10325275_803766419641575_8474107710882543178_n
Chuck.
chucktatmod

Ande Monster Yellow Mono Review by Chuck

DSCF0034

Ande Monster has been my main line of choice ever since the first time I used it a few years back. This line is just incredible in every criteria we require for hunting monster cats. It has incredible strength. I still have not successfully been able to break the 50# line when getting snagged. Monster also has the most abrasion resistance of any line I have ever used. The knot strength using the palomar is unbelievable. The knot actually breaks at a higher strength than the line does. You just don't get any better than that. Using one of the easiest knots to tie, the easiest for me, this line will simply not break before another part of the line does. Something else I find appealing about the Monster Yellow is the lack of memory. After casting out the line lays flat through the guides. No coiling at all. This lack of memory also helps in avoiding the dreaded backlash. The line isn't trying to spring off the spool, it simply lays there until pulled out. Another feature I enjoy is the lack of stretch. This line like all other mono does have some stretch, however it is less than many other mono lines I have used. The Yellow version of the Ande is also florescent. Under a black light it glows like rope. As far as mono line goes, Ande Monster simply has no peer in my experience. This line receives my highest recommendation for monster catfish duty. It does cost a little more than the bargain mono's, but it is MORE than worth it. Lately I have been buying it straight from the Ande website. They have the lowest prices and the biggest selection. So head on over to the Ande site and pick some up. You can thank me later.

20140426_182623 copy
Chuck.

chucktatmod

Bank Fishing, Not just for weekenders by Scott Ross

2012-07-09_21-05-47_487
Bank fishing? When I was doing the whole Bass tournament thing I would just laugh when I heard that. The only bank fishing I ever did then was when I took my kids bluegill fishing. I realize now that sometimes bank fishing is a lot better than being out in the wind or sun. And it doesn't mean parking next to a bridge and fishing the same trash filled spot that everybody else tosses a worm in from.
2013-10-20_22-29-59_447
Sometimes bank fishing is as simple as running your boat out to an island or up river to park somewhere. And yet it is still quite often just simply what it imply's... bank fishing. Maybe you was unable to get the boat to the lake or just simply don't have one. Or you have a real sense of adventure and wanna hike out to where nobody else has been because they cant get a boat there or walk that far. Bank fishing is a way of life for many. You could run down to the lake and throw a hook out in the same place that everyone else does, And you might get lucky. But If you want success, and you want it consistently it takes a lot of time and dedication.
2013101395073359
There are many different factors that are deemed necessary for a bank spot to produce quality fish time and time again. From depth changes to current, and structure to accessibility, And a good food supply.
Successful bank fishing requires prep work. Internet can come in quite handy. Once you know what body of water you plan to fish, the easiest part is finding a topographic map for that lake. Of course, rivers are not always so easy.  Just type and search. For lakes, a good cove will have some depth to it. Or a bank stretch that may have a good drop off. For rivers a bend in the river is a great place to start looking. But accessibility can play a big factor in choosing a location.
To help me find access and to look for new spots I like to use Google Earth. And when I'm on the road I use the Google maps app that comes standard on most phones. It has a option to turn on satellite view.  I spend a lot of time on my computer following rivers and searching lake shores. When following rivers I like to watch for where two rivers combine or a small creek drops into a bigger river. Also where train tracks cross a river. I usually try to avoid where a road crosses the river. More often than not It is usually a well known area and fished often. Train tracks usually have deeper holes underneath and the pillars can be a great permanent structure for fish. When searching you can usually see a house or road close to the spot you want to check out. You may often have to get permission to get to an area. Most people are more than generous enough to allow it. But not everybody. Just be courteous and polite and if someone says no, then just accept it and move on.
2014-02-21_11-37-19_2652014-02-21_11-38-08_254
Scouting areas in your free time is always the best way. Check out an area while the sun is up and you will usually be able to see structure and water depth. And you know if it is an area you want to try out or not. Another good thing to watch for is branches hanging low or any other obstacle that may prove hazardous when the light has gone down. This would also be a great time to make a clearing to fish from. It is better to get this done ahead of time so as not to scare off fish or even hurt yourself while trying to rush later. It may also be necessary to clear and mark a path just to get there.
I carry a hiking backpack with me wherever I go. This is for several reasons. First off It's just way easier than trying to carry a tacklebox along with everything else. Second its always ready to go.
2014-02-21_10-14-57_424
Things in my Pack
Umbrella
Trash bag
Spare clothes(in a gallon Ziplock)
Fillet knife
Hunting knife
Hatchet
Small military style saw
Fish grips
Scale
Rope stringer
Glow sticks
Terminal Tackle (Hooks, weights, etc.)
Hand and foot warmers
Matches and lighter
Spare flashlight
Spare batteries
2014-02-21_10-18-53_876
And on occasion I take a chair along. Many of these serve more then one purpose. Trash bag can become a poncho, carry trash, or put wet soaked clothes in. Glow sticks can be used for poles, to mark the trail, mark ground hog holes, or just keep kids busy if they get bored. And  so on. Are all of these necessary? No. Do I use all of these? Quite often. But these are just the things I like to use. Some of these are just there for comfort and others for safety. If I were to slip and fall into a creek or river on a cold spring or fall night they may just save a friends life or even mine. And cold feet can ruin a good night of fishing so why not be comfortable. These by no means should be considered the only things needed or required. Think of it more as a suggestion that comes in handy.
There are alot of things that can make a bankfishing trip a complete bust or the trip of a lifetime. To me the quest can almost as fun as the fish themselves. When you take the time to do everything necessary, you know that  monster  was earned. And even if you strike out, the spot is ready and waiting for you to come back
There a lot of parts I'm sure that are missed in here. So feel free to chime in and help fellow bankfishers out.  Just remember when asking for permission to go on someones land to be respectful and honest. And leave nothing but your tracks. Environmental protection is everyone's responsibility.